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Crescent Crack Buttress
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Mexican Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pete Gibbs and George Lowe 1970
Page Views: 30,355
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 10, 2002

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Mexican crack

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Mexican Crack is located toward the west side of Crescent Crack Buttress. It is the obvious left slanting crack seen from the road. Usually crowded. Start in dihedral up to jugs and pull onto face, delicately run up the seamy cracks to the leftward turn, smear feet below crack with hands in the crack to the chains. Good foot work saves the arms for the top of the route.


Set of stoppers and camalots up to #2 with a few runners.

Photos of Mexican Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Long shot of LCC and the Mexican Crack
Long shot of LCC and the Mexican Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexican Crack  DC4800 10/13/00
Mexican Crack DC4800 10/13/00
Rock Climbing Photo: Evening top out on Mexican crack
Evening top out on Mexican crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Are you a Mexican or a Mexican't?
Are you a Mexican or a Mexican't?
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks like a desperate clip
Looks like a desperate clip
Rock Climbing Photo: Showing me how it is done.
Showing me how it is done.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gnarly start
Gnarly start
Rock Climbing Photo: lowering off of Mexican crack
lowering off of Mexican crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Eyes on the prize.
Eyes on the prize.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top, 8/3/12. Photo: Pat Bardsley
BETA PHOTO: From the top, 8/3/12. Photo: Pat Bardsley
Rock Climbing Photo: One slightly less graceful way to do the start
One slightly less graceful way to do the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Das craigers in the tenuous double cracks
Das craigers in the tenuous double cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to figure out the 5.9 move
Trying to figure out the 5.9 move
Rock Climbing Photo: What a shot!!  Just before the diagonalling crack ...
What a shot!! Just before the diagonalling crack ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the toward the traverse.
Looking up the toward the traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexican crack LCC
Mexican crack LCC

Comments on Mexican Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a great varied route. It starts off with a tricky dihedral (use your head), some nice vertical grooves, and then the finale. Pick your stances and place your pro in the diagonalling crack smartly. There are many resting stances. This route epitomizes a classic route. It has length, varied climbing, exposure, good rock, and consistent difficulty.
By Rob Hyldahl
Apr 8, 2005

The diagnaling crack up top is quite sensational. Most definitely a worthwhile outing.
By Nathan Fisher
May 3, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did this route yet again, and my partner brought up a good point that I would tend to agree with: If the route is a 5.10a and the crux is on the diagonalling crack, yet arguably the hardest move, in reality, is the dihedral, is the climb really a 5.10a? What I am getting at is that the 5.9 move feels a lot harder. I know, I know, quit my whining, but I have watched more people struggle on the start than anywhere else. That is my 2 cents on this one.
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
May 3, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I feel the same way as Nathan about the start of this climb. For me, the dihedral is much more difficult than anything else on the entire climb. However, in my case, I can definitely attribute this to two things: (1) height, it is a long reach for my short legs, and (2) flexibilty, in that I don't have any. Other people I know have little to no problem with the start, many of them much smaller than me (which is how I know that it isn't just height).

Can't wait to climb it again!
By Anonymous Coward
May 30, 2005

That's a classic LCC 5.10a! like most of the routes in the canyon...things rated 9+, tend to be harder than things rated10a. Gotta love those old school can can just hear the old dogs standing around scratching their heads in 1975..."I dunno man...that was pretty hard, but not the hardest ever (5.10 at the time being pretty high end)...better rate it 5.9 so people don't think we're wusses!"

Anyone else notice this? if you can climb 10a gear in LCC you will climbe alot harder elsewhere. As for another route like this, I think of Bloody fingers in the city. 10a with a soild 10b bouldery start? Still 10a? I guess???............
Oct 4, 2005

I have found that a sweet palming move with the right hand in the bottom dihedral makes things a bit easier. The move is a little insecure, but there is good pro at your waist. I noticed the ring pin just above the dihedral is deformed! I always clipped the sucker but never wanted to test it out. That thing is older than I am!
By vincent pierce
Oct 6, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I didn't find the dihedral to be too difficult , though it probably is 5.10. My trouble came about eight feet from the top when I got near the chicken head. I grabbed it as a hand hold and was so pumped that I lost it while making my move. Had a nice sized fall from that one! Guess I should have just stuck with the jams! Nothing like falling two moves from the top.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this was my nemesis when i first started climbing. took me 3 or 4 tries to get it clean, and many more to do w/grace
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 5, 2006

Ahhh, tried to onsight it today, and got spanked by that corner. Fell twice onto a blue metolius right before the hard part was over. Then it started to rain, and we had to bail. So frustrating, I'm going to be feeling like a chump the rest of the day.
By Duncan Murray
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 26, 2007

In 2002 I belayed a friend who used some sort of a head smoosh bringing his legs left and up making his body horizontal. I stood there mouth open thinking his neck would snap.

I agree with Bobby, this start is just something you have to push through, but the dihedral is the hardest part!
By Charles Dalgleish
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 28, 2007

Gotta say, of all the "classics" in LCC, I really don't consider this one.

Onsight on this required me pulling a Lynn hill ala "the nose". I literally had to turn around and face out of the corner, and stem/shuffle up it. Made for an interesting climb, but one I didn't find all that enjoyable.
By Nate Furman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 7, 2007

Beautiful route. Top-roped laps on it today. The dihedral is indeed tricky. I can't say if it's 5.9 or just seems to be one of those challenges that granite throws at you now and again. The middle section a little tenuous...especially in warm, direct sun. The angling crack is positive and sensational. There are such good fingerlocks and thin hands in it! Quickly moving my feet from blob to blob, and occasionally using the crack for my right foot, was key for it not being too pumpy. Can't wait to do it again.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 9, 2007

Did this route again yesterday. I can say with no shame, I have no clue what I'm supposed to be doing in that dihedral. I flailed, eventually got past it. The diagonalling crack was Easy, compared to both the dihedral and the tenuous face/seam middle section, at least for me. The crux is short, and the feet aren't really that bad, I had right foot in the crack most of the way too.
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 12, 2007

D.Shiembob, if you really want to know...try climbing the dihedral like a chimney (i.e. put your whole body/butt into the wall on the right, use both feet on the face holds out left, and can get no hands rests for most of the hard section! Then simply use the bomber face holds on the left up high and lunge for the horn...
Once you get it down pat, don't even bother putting gear in until you get that makes for a much smoother rope run...
By tenesmus
Jun 19, 2007

Listen to Glen. When in this positions, there is also a really nice wrist lock/fist jam where the crack widens out.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I love this route and its three distinct sections. Its nice to get the hard part over early and then be able to enjoy the rest! I do the chimney technique too, but must be using my shoulder more than my head cause I always end up with a rasberry there regardless of how many shirts I have on! Talked to someone who said they face climbed around the right to the horn but can't remember how hard they thought that was. I also like the old rating cause 9+ is always harder than 10a!
By Texaswall
From: The Woodlands, TX
Aug 6, 2008

I'd say I onsighted this today, but after devouring the previous comments prior to climbing it, I can only claim a redpoint (if I claimed a flash, my partner would likely expose me as a fraud, as she timed the ascent with a calendar).

I did garnish my shoulder with the raspberry that Stan is familiar with, and feel like my future ascents should be less anxiety provoking through the start. It's the middle that proved mentally challenging. I'll take strenuous over tenuous most any day, thus I enoyed the business in the signature diagonal much more than the balancey midsection.

Pro is generally good as noted and never bigger than a #2 BD. I'd tell you how many pieces I actually placed, but I'm not giving out free laughs today. You can use relatively few draws/runners, however, mostly needing length only when you turn the two "corners".

A note on the approach. The trail from the UTA parking lot has been improved and seen some traffic. It adds minimal length and gets your vehicle off the road. Just don't be tempted by any premature left turns and the braided bouldering paths.
By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 17, 2008

Wow. What a lead. What an awesome climb.
Is it just me, or does the horn you go to at the start feel loose?
By Abandoned User
Oct 25, 2008

So so so so good!

To prevent rope drag, I didn't protect until I'd pulled out of the dihedral. It gets up there, but I was sure happy not to have the drag as I was getting close to the top. Superb line.
By notmyname
From: Sandy, UT
Apr 15, 2009

Gotta say that if the start is 5.9+ then the diagnaling crack is 5.6/5.7ish!!! I laughed my ass off when I saw it was rated 5.10a and the start 5.9+.

It's funny when people say that a climb is easy if you have the moves dialed. 5.12's are pretty easy when you have them totally dialed. My thoughts are that our F.A. forfathers were just a-holes.
By Alec LaLonde
May 10, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Make sure you pull the rope from below the anchors rather than from below the dihedral -- we got ours stuck today behind the horn and it required some creativity to retrieve...
By steve santora
Nov 3, 2009

anybody know anything about the direct start?
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 20, 2011

Did this climb the other day and got the onsight. the trick to the beginning is to stem. I stemmed through that whole beginning part and it wasn't too bad. It protects really well too. I placed a number 3 down low with no runner and didn't have any rope drag. For me the crux was the vertical part after the dihedral. The slanting crack was amazing and hard because i was so tired by then. I didn't place anything bigger than a .75 BD other than the number 3 down low.
By Buddy Tangalos
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 5, 2011

I followed Glen's chimney advice, and sent it bottom to top. Love the old piton.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 20, 2011

@Steve Santora - THe Direct slab start goes somewhere in the 10a/b ballpark I believe. I've only tr'd it though, but it wasn't that bad. Some dime edging, and crystal pinching. There's an old chopped bolt hole you can see if you stand on some of the rocks just underneath it.
By cslice
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 25, 2011

This climb is worth every star it gets...absolutely fantastic. I've heard this climbed talked up a lot but in my opinion it is a very doable 5-10a if you can handle slab and crack moves and an awkward dihedral's not as hard as some of the other old school ratings in the canyon. I brought a single rack with doubles in BD .4, .5, .75, and 1. That seemed to be more than adequate. Climb this route!!
By Andrewprime1 Arredondo
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb is fantastic! Definitely a must do if you are in the area. Don't be scared, JUST DO IT! This 10a is probably easier than some other 5.9s in the canyon.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Work the dihedral with a combination of stemming, chimney, and a throw to the jug. Double cracks go easier then they first appear but take small pro (TCU's 2 and 3's)... That being said, the diagonal handcrack is the bee's knees. Best route on the buttress! GET it!
By benjaminleaton Eaton
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 30, 2013

I will agree that this route is a 5.10a...but it's not a gimme. It's on "old-school 5.10." You have to work for it. It will throw a little of everything at you. The comments about the beginning being 5.9 confuse me because that beginning is very stout and labor intensive.
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
May 30, 2015

There are two types of people in this world- MexiCANs and MexiCAN'Ts. Be a MexiCAN my friends!!
By Douglas Goodrich
Sep 18, 2015

Feels like a 10d. I just got off Sasquatch (9+) and, relatively speaking, Mexican Crack is so much harder. Felt like an 11a start, and then sustained 5.10d climbing thereafter. I really struggled. Placed at least a hundred cams. Took at least as many times. I'll be back for this route after some serious training. Made a fool of myself.
By madskates
From: slc
Dec 7, 2015

Me and a friend made a little video of the route, enjoy!
By NG0
Nov 5, 2016

Found nuts at the base 11/4. Message me with specifics and I will get it back to you.
By Tyler Needham
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 21, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Loved this climb, definitely 5.10 (it's a step up from climbs like Sasquatch, Gordon's, Touch Up, etc). It's got a little bit of everything, incredibly fun!
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
Jun 21, 2017

Going up to mexican crack tomorrow to bolt it since the gear seemed questionable in spots but i'm missing a couple hangers. Does anyone have two or three i could barrow?
By Fields Tian
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 21, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Glad there were no bolts. Only a fixed nut was there.
By brad munk
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Aug 24, 2017

Were bolts actually added to this route??
By Benjamin Anderson
Aug 25, 2017

As of yesterday there were not bolts except for the well-placed chain anchors on top. The dihedral wasn't bad. I honestly wouldn't rate it any higher than a 9. I definitely don't think it's the crux. It seemed to me a balancy sequence in the middle was...but that's just the opinion of a sport climber who converted to trad. Total money bottom to top!

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