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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Robertson and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 3,616
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Mike Bankoff crankin' it.


This is a SUPERB route, if you are into the grade and are at the Contest Wall, do this route for sure. The crux comes early and there are great moves throughout this route.

This route starts with the crux, getting to and past the first bolt then is in your face again at the last bolt, finishing with a great mantle/heel hook for shorter people. This route is very well sustained and will be enjoyable for all. It is on my top 10 list for Shelf Road so far....


This route is located next to the excellent 'Suburbia', which is about at the middle of the Contest wall, located about 100' before the obvious pillar.


4-5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Metropolis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shelf Road Top 10!
Shelf Road Top 10!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of this really good, hard .11.
Nearing the top of this really good, hard .11.

Comments on Metropolis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 27, 2017
By Michael Amato
Oct 18, 2004

A crimpy step left at the first bolt leads to moderate climbing until the going gets thin again after the third bolt. Make sure to save some steam for the tricky mantle just below the anchors! Excellent!
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

After the boulder problem start, the rest of the climb goes at 10+/11-. Placement of the 1st bolt is very poor relative to the holds (bolt should be well to the right of its current location).
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Apr 7, 2008

I thought the crux was at the last bolt, at least for me. Skip the clip until your above the last bolt (felt easer than cliping before for me).
By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

5? bolts, I believe. 2 down low, big gap, then 3 more and anchor. Bottom seems like the crux, but continuous 5.11c after the second bolt, I thought.
By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
May 1, 2013

Ben- pretty sure Glenn was running about down there about the time you were toddling around in diapers. Metropolis was an early must-do, would not be surprised he's done it numerous times.
By Jean Spencer
From: Seattle, WA
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A tad soft. 11c.
By Mike Morin
From: North Conway, NH
May 1, 2013

No kidding, right? Or perhaps he should go down to Thunder and get on a Glen Schuler route before making assinine comments on a public forum.
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 15, 2013

11+ OS. Shelf Road classic.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Dec 16, 2013

Super fun line! The start (1st-2nd) bolt is definitely the first crux. The rest is mid-11 and stays pretty sustained the entire way. At the end, I tried a hook/mantle combo, and it didn't work out so well, so I worked the big jug out left until I could stand on it and then went back right to the anchors. Missed the OS and nearly nailed it the second time. I'll be back soon. Have fun!
By Adam Keifenheim
Feb 24, 2015

Great route and great moves, but the first bolt is a problem. It is 3' too far left and probably 6" too low and at the bouldery crux, no less. Should probably be moved.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 24, 2015

I have always thought the bolt positions gave the route some character. Yes, you don't have a bolt at you waist for the crux. It forces you to climb with confidence.

[Edit: If you are wanting a route that you whip at any point, I would suggest some of the newer routes at Shelf. The other option is 15ft stick clip for the 2nd bolt.]
By Adam Keifenheim
Feb 25, 2015

I'm going to have to politely disagree. I feel that if the first bolt could use a crash pad, and there's a more protective place to put it, then it can be moved (assuming the FA'er and Bolter don't mind).

I would agree with you if this was the third bolt where there is not groundfall potential, but there is. You might not deck, but it is probably too risky and any slack or a light belayer makes it dangerous for the ankles. Plus, it's the hardest move on the route, and there's an easy place to put it where it would offer more protection.

I love the route, I just think that modern placement of the first bolt would improve the route in terms of enjoyment and safety.
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 7, 2015

I agree with Adam Keifenheim above. If bolts are placed for "character" and not for safety, then why the hell place any bolts at all? A 5.14 climber can go and bolt a 100-ft 5.6 with just one bolt half way up and call it "character".
By Dylan Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

If you are under 5.10, the upper crux feels substantially harder. Nonetheless, this is a great route. Go climb it! (Also, I agree about the first bolt placement. Should be able to clip while standing on the flake, and should be further right) - it's funny that people have been saying that now for 13 years with no change, haha.
By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 27, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It is a V3 off the ground into an 11b. Make sure those tendons are warm before you hop on! Bolt placements are perfect. No danger or scary factor at all after the crux.

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