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Pitch three (from above): Jesse C pulling out of t...
The easiest route of the area, and every bit as good as the others. Indeed, the route is a masterpiece, offering brilliant climbing at a continuous, moderate level of difficulty.
Pitch 1: 5c+, up a pillar and onto the wall proper, offering superb face climbing on good, at times thin hods.
Pitch 2: 5b, like climbing a ladder, superb bands of rock, one good hold after another, before easing off to a big ledge.
Pitch 3: 5c+, from the end of the ledge, the best pitch of the route, and perhaps the entire area. Sustained and technical from start to finish, with an interesting change of pace two thirds of the way up.
Pitch 4: 5b, a mild but aesthetic pitch traversing up and left. A bit chossy at first.
Pitch 5: 5b (with 60 meter ropes, pitches four and five can be combined), moderate, pleasant face climbing up and to the left.
Pitch 6: 5b, another pleasant pitch of technical face climbing on small but good holds.
Pitch 7: 5c+, a brilliant, steep conclusion to the route on very positive holds.
Note: another, markedly more difficult route crosses the route and shares its second, third and fifth anchor. At the second anchor, make sure to take the pitch on the left. At the third anchor, make sure to take the pitch on the right. The other route finishes at the fifth anchor.
The approach leads directly to the base of the route, at the furthest extension of the wall (a pillar extension from the proper face), with the only tree at that elevation marking the spot. The name of the route is marked on the rock.
Descent is by straightforward abseil.
The routes is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required.
Pitch seven (from above): the final, crux moves up...
Pitch three: Bill Flaherty sending.
By FourT6and2 Haftel
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 1, 2016
Do you need to use twin ropes? Or can a single 60m or 70m rope do? The route guide PDF from Melchsee-Frutt says two 50m ropes. But the route guide doesn't show how long each pitch is, so no way of knowing if a 60m or 70m rope will work for rappel back down...