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School House Crag
Routes Sorted
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Arachnophobia S 
Cry Me a River S 
Firefly S 
Flying Dutchman S 
Good Day to Die S 
Humpty Dumpty S 
Kaya S 
Metamorphosis S 
Natural Mystic S 
Soul Rebel S 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Laura Hahn, Tim Anderson
Page Views: 1,209
Submitted By: Tim Anderson on Oct 9, 2009

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Climb slightly overhanging face to a crux at the third bolt. A section of easier climbing follows. Then, continue up the short corner/crack section past the final bolt to the shuts. This climb has seen some serious accidents. Please consider the final moves and be competent at the suggested grade. It can be tricky and a ledge fall is the outcome if your not a solid 5.8 leader. Proceed with caution and have fun!


2nd bolted route from left end


6 bolts, ring shuts

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By Isaac C
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

An unpleasant, uninteresting, ill-conceived route with uniquely bad protection placement. The 5.6 finish has no redundancy for the abseil/belay (not to mention it is fixed to a tree), and the 5.8 extension adds nothing to the route while creating a dangerous, rope-obstructed lead fall on the move to the anchors. On a dry day when the adjacent route is available (Flying Dutchman 5.5), new climbers should work on that instead. If you're warming up for the hard stuff to the right, use Firefly (5.8). It's really a shame, because a much better and safer line of identical difficulty could have been envisioned here...
By Brian Mohr
Nov 26, 2014

I always enjoy climbing the top half corner crack on this route. I wouldn't recommend the top half of the route to a new leader due to the ledge potential.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the 3rd bolt crux
Pulling the 3rd bolt crux
By E G
May 18, 2017

First half is some fun 5.6 climbing, second half is a scary/dangerous climb above a grassy ledge. The route to the right is a much better warm up.

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