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Juicy Fingers T 
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Mesresha S 
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Mesresha 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FFA James Otey, 5/13/16 Equipped by Mike Robinson and Bradley White, 2012
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 13, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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James Otey on the FFA of Mesresha

Description 

Mesresha is a test of pure crimping prowess. It features generally small and sharp crimpers that trace a line up a bulging face, culminating with a brutal crank off a really small edge. Originally bolted in 2012 by Mike Robinson and Bradley White, this had to wait four years for a proper free ascent. Rumors of friable holds and unpleasant climbing kept many away from the route, and it gained a place in Rumney lore as an ill-conceived venture. Recently, however, the route was more thoroughly cleaned and to some surprise, this has turned out to be a pretty good route. It just goes to show that you shouldn't knock something until you try it.

To climb the route, amble up to the big ledge in the center of the crag and stare up at the bulging face. Climb up a bit and try to get the first three draws clipped. Go back to the ledge, rest, and warm up your fingers. Next, fire up the sustained crimp ladder to better holds above the 4th bolt and make a progressively easier romp to the anchors. In the crux, resist the urge to stem right to the less-steep rock over by Sesame Street.

Mike Robinson named this route after his son's middle name. According to Mike, "in the Ethiopian culture it means 'something which helps one forget the pain of one's life and/or past.'"

Location 

Between Mitosis on the left and Sesame Street on the right.

Protection 

Bolts


Comments on Mesresha Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Robinson
From: Worcester, MA
May 13, 2016

Great to see this finally got sent! Well done James!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 13, 2016

If you're interested in reading the history of this route, check it out here: mountainproject.com/v/mesresha...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 17, 2016

When I got on it at least, it was basically like dynoing between upright razor blades.
By MattH
May 22, 2016

Went out and tried this a little yesterday (no send). Definitely meander over to the mitosis anchors at the top - the anchors on this were just two bolt hangers when I tried it so there's now a lone biner at the anchors. You're not missing much by skipping the last bit of 5.10, and you can probably also avoid some of the rope drag through the bush/sapling.

The rock quality in the crux is solid (though there's still plenty of vegitation in the first holds on the bulge that you move left onto). After the 4th, once the difficulties ease up, the rock is definitely still quite loose and holds will likely keep breaking for some time (until the "right" holds get chalked up at least). Definitely a worthwhile addition! Kind of like a distilled version of the other crimpy Rumney 13's.
By MattH
May 22, 2016

Forgot to mention - while the belay from the ledge is an appealing option, there's a little colony of ground-nesting bees in the dirt to the right of the tree stump (the natural belay spot). They seemed friendly but it's probably best not to disturb them.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
May 26, 2016

Did the tree get removed?
By bradley white
From: Bend
Nov 3, 2016

The sleeve bolts in this climb are not suited for repetitive falling onto them and will fatigue. Sleeve bolts are removable with the proper tool and eye bolts can be put in their place.

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