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Bolted Route Number 3 S 
Bolted Route Number 4 S 
Mary Lynn's Slab S 
Mes Amis S,TR 

Mes Amis 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Horan and Werner Braun, 1996
Page Views: 943
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Mes Amis. 2. Mary Lynn's Slab.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a great lead for the aspiring 5.9 leader - low angle slab requiring good footwork - smearing and thin edging. It is well-protected with the crux around the 4th bolt.


Eight well-spaced bolts, this is easily approached for toproping off of the anchors.

Photos of Mes Amis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill near the crux of Mes Amis.
Bill near the crux of Mes Amis.

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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 4, 2001

Very nice pitch. Thin footholds; solid 5.9, I thought. Definitely better of the two Waterslab pitches, though Mary Lynn's is well worthwhile since you're there. Joe L.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 18, 2002

Don't TR until the anchors are fixed. The block they are in cracked on 6-15-02 and may come down. Someone please fix.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 12, 2002

This is a great climb. Thin footholds and not much for hands mark the crux (which i think is around the 4th bolt). The first time I tried this climb I couldn't get passed the crux. The second time I tried it, a week later, I was able to lead it (with 2 falls). I'm 5'6" and I can't really get that great hand hold for you left hand at the crux. I had to do a half-mantle thing, and put my feet up really high, and then go for that left hold... It's a great move.

I thought this was harder than 5.9 compared to it's neighbor, Mary Lynn's Slab, I would rate this at 5.9+ at least. But I'm short and can't really reach that key hold... The first section of Leviathon is rated 5.10a and I thought this was significantly harder than that one.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with James; the crux traverse is more like 10a than 9: thin handholds and only smears for the feet, with a big reach left to get the bomber hold at the end of the traverse.
By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this route was pretty fun. It's good footwork practice and IMHO goes at 10a.
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed, somewhat of a sandbag. Plenty of bolts, however, makes this one a very safe lead.

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