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6. The Good Book
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 
Atman / Brahman ? TR 
Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 
Cap'n Ahab T,TR 
Contortionist, The S 
Crow's Nest Egg T,TR 
Getting Biblical T,TR 
Gift of the Kneebar, The T,TR 
Harpoon Me T,TR 
I Am Time T 
Krassy T,TR 
Meryl's Crack T,TR 
My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 
Nephalim, The S 
Prince Arjuna TR 
Rachel S,TR 
Rebecca S,TR 
Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 
Sins of the Father, The TR 
Sins of the Son, The S,TR 
Up the Slot T,TR 
Whalehunter T,TR 

Meryl's Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Camilo Pavone, Meryl Strata, June 2012
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Norm Rasmussen on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Far left of the Good Book Wall. 1. Meryl's Crack...

Description 

Start on jugs (beware all the spider's webs!) into a right leaning crack with a small tree growing out of it (great pro!). Head straight up.

Location 

Far left of the Good Book wall on a large ledge. The ledge disappears as you move more left.

Protection 

Standard rack


Photos of Meryl's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Meryl's crack is on the left. Krassy is on the rig...
BETA PHOTO: Meryl's crack is on the left. Krassy is on the rig...

Comments on Meryl's Crack Add Comment
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By kenr
May 28, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Seems like maybe a hold or two broke off since this interesting route was first discovered.

For me the crux was a little below the little tree. Not using the little tree as a hold makes the difficulty more sustained and interesting.

I felt lots of thought needed for the crux sequence, also above it to get past the tree. Maybe the difficulty went down to 5.8 after several tries, so I found all the best holds and got the sequence wired. But on-sight it doesn't hurt to have the finger endurance and move-sequence experience of a 5.9 climber.
By David Kerkeslager
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't see a reason to call this a PG13. There's a bit of runout at the top, but it's past the crux and even with the longer fall there aren't too many protrusions to run into if you fall. Micro cams are required to protect it well and the cracks can be dirty, but that's true of a lot of climbs in this area. Sling the tree. Some of the protection isn't perfect but there's plenty of it.
By LB Edwards
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 5, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Bring a broom for this one - it gets filthy and the spiders get pretty crazy in the corners.

Definitely a little hard than a 5.5, just came off Papa Bear for this one and while I'd agree on a PG, it definitely feels a little PG13 towards the top.

Nice big boulder at the top for a few micro - small size cams and a tree to setup on. Or just sling the boulder and a tree. The choice is yours.

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