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Merry Maids 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nelson & Wright, 1992
Page Views: 5,091
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (146)
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Johnny making a clip on Merry Maids.


Unmistakable, Merry Maids crops up about 200 feet from the ice cave and fires up the corner of a colorful, left-facing dihedral. This rock is still a little sharp, but it has been getting more friendly with use. Big blocks lead to an interesting stemming problem that will dump you off the corner at three quarters height. Negotiate a small bulge just below the anchor.

It is a good warm-up, gets good sun, and has acceptable but not outstanding rock.


A dozen draws and a rope.

Photos of Merry Maids Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving out from the corner.
Moving out from the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Merry Maids.
Merry Maids.

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By tim naylor
Mar 27, 2004

Excellent route. Easiest .10 at Rifle
By B.J. Sbarra
Aug 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, easier for taller folks.
By Randy Slavin
Sep 22, 2009

This route is in desperate need of bolt replacement. Multiple bolts wiggling in holes, loose nuts, etc. Easy route, but scary protection currently.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 25, 2010

All of the lead bolts got replaced during the Rifle Cleanup 2010 with fat stainless hardware courtesy of the ASCA.
By Curtis Summers
From: Fort Worth Texas
Jan 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I love, love, love this route !!! I was there 9/5/2013. About 10-15 feet off the ground is a loose, bowling ball size rock that is loose. Don't grab it. That's what the big X on it means...other than that, enjoy !
By D. Scott Clark
From: Boulder
Jun 26, 2017

Really fun crack climbing on bolts. Stretchy crux.
By S. Neoh
Sep 1, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks to all for the new hardware (even tho they were installed a few years ago). Very nice route. The crux is somewhat height-dependent, but there are a lot of choices for high feet.

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