REI Community
Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
Select Route:
Hollis Route T 
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 
Hypothetical Route T 
Keel Hauling T 
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 
Without A Net T 

Merrimac Butte, The Albatross 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: The Ruckman Brothers
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: charley graham on Nov 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Albatross.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A sustained thin-hand splitter on pretty damn good Entrada comprises the first pitch. Belay on a ledge halfway up the butte. The second pitch follows a narrowing crack until you can worm into the chimney and wriggle to the top (5.10+).

Location 

200 ft. left of the southeast prow of Merrimac butte on a west facing wall.

Protection 

Doubles of fingers to fists with extra thin hands.


Comments on Merrimac Butte, The Albatross Add Comment
Show which comments
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Mar 20, 2013

Pretty darn good route, you might forget that you're climbing Entrada.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Extra-extra #1's and .75's. Anything bigger than a #2 Camalot is just extra weight.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Nov 10, 2015

A great Entrada route for sure, with a variety of burly sizes. The 2nd pitch involves some pretty wild climbing up the chimney, with a face splitter providing pretty good pro. There are some sizable loose blocks to avoid on this pitch, and a very tight squeeze finale that is best tackled deep in the depths of the chimney.
The first pitch belay has a newer bolt and a splitter crack which requires an extra #1 Camalot or two. The rap anchors (which are on a separate system about 50' left of the Albatross route) are uninspiring and could greatly benefit from an update! Two single rope raps with a 70m gets you down, but the initial rap is very close, so watch the ends carefully.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About