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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Townsend/Wicks
Page Views: 1,007
Submitted By: old5ten on Feb 18, 2014  with updates from Todd Townsend

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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First pitch of Merman.


P1 (5.6/7): from the right side of the toe of the buttress head up and left toward a bolt (easy climbing, but a bit off the ground). Pass a small lip on the left while following a thin/flaring crack seam, then head up the face past three more bolts and angle right toward the prominent bush and anchor.
P2 (5.7): go up past six bolts then move right into a crack system that leads up toward the 2nd anchor. Alternatively, it is possible to go straight up from the 6th bolt, watch the giant flake (that may or may not be loose).

A good warm-up.


Start at the toe of the slab. Two 30m rappels from mussy hooks.


P1- 4 bolts and optional thin gear
P2- 6 bolts and gear to 2"

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By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Feb 20, 2014

Nice rock! Good times.
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 21, 2014

Did this in one pitch, a lot of drag, probably should have broken it into 2. Good climbing though, fun stuff.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Although it is possible to climb this route by only clipping the bolts, I wouldn't call it a sport climb. The cruxes are bolt protected, but most people will want some additional gear, especially for the top half of the second pitch. The pitches can be run together, but it's probably best to break them up to reduce rope drag.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 17, 2015

A really fun route! The first bolt is a bit far off the ground without pro for your aspiring 5.7 climber! ;^)
I lead this one in 1 long pitch w/longer runners and the rope drag wasn't bad at all. I only placed 2 pieces of gear, a #2 and a yellow TCU at the top.

The wife tied in and lowered me until she was tight and "weighted climbed" until I was on the ground (25 feet or so). She then did two raps off. Pretty straight-forward.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 3, 2015

What he said. Good warm up.

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