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Mermaid 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Zach Wahrer on Aug 27, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Sarah leading off on P1 of Mermaid.

Description 

Mermaid is a fine 4 pitch climb that manages to skirt most of the big roofs on the wall. It is the furthest left of all the climbs.

P1 (10b): Traverse left off the belay ledge, clipping several bolts along the way. The line then heads up for a few more bolts and finishes at a semi-hanging belay bolt anchor.

P2 (11a): Traverse hard right off the belay, traversing under the roof. Some loose rock on this pitch so stay heads up. The bolt line then heads up passing the crux moves on crimps. After passing the roof, there is a two bolt belay. I would recommend continuing on up to the next anchor less than ~10m above, otherwise you'll end up with some heinous rope drag for the next pitch. If you don't decide to stop, continue up and left passing several bolts to a rappel bolt anchor stance.

P3 (10b): From the rappel bolt belay, traverse hard left and pull a roof. After several more bolts and roofs, you will arrive on the tree'd ledge and an anchor. More loose rock on this pitch.

From here you can either traverse back around the corner and rap down to the other routes or continue up the shared last pitch to the top.

P4 (5.6): Bolts lead up the slab and gully above. Runout, but extremely easy climbing.

Location 

Furthest left route on the wall.

Protection 

All bolts. We brought 19 quickdraws and this was plenty for both climbing and keeping your rope out of the water when rapping down.


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