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Merlin’s Wand  

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Merlin's Wand & Merlin


Merlin’s Wand 5.8- G / ( 5.4-5.5R ) F.A. R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013

Slightly thinner than its neighbor, Merlin.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.4-5.5R until the first bolt),(bolts near the cruxes). Above the 2nd bolt continue straight up keeping 6 to 10 feet left of Merlin. Continue, passing a 3rd 3/8" bolt to the Merlin belay. 115-120ft 5.8- ( The Merlin belay/rap station is two new 3/8” bolts) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the Merlin Chain anchor with a single, full-length 60m, or double 50m; or....

P2 – ...Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.


START- Look for the 2 new 3/8” SS bolts about 25-30 ft right of the "False" Holy Smoke flake and 6-8 feet left of the BLACK 3/8" 1st bolt of Merlin. (Only the 1st Merlin bolt is visible.) Belay on the “path” in the trees about 20-25ft the right of the climb. Traverse in on the 2” ledge until directly below the two, new 3/8” bolts.


3 short draws, Optional: one long (6 ft) sling to also clip the 2nd bolt of Merlin. Use the Merlin anchor/rap.

Photos of Merlin’s Wand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: K.Winkler on Merlin's Wand
BETA PHOTO: K.Winkler on Merlin's Wand

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