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Wizard's Path S 

Merlin's Magic Corner 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Teague
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,216
Submitted By: Teague on Sep 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Trad climbing up the mid-section of Merlin's.

Description 

Merlin escapes the Guillotine via an enjoyable finger and hand crack up changing corners and overlaps. Join The Wizard's Path at its second to last bolt.

Location 

It's the left-facing corner right of Guillotine .

Protection 

Fallstoppers, springloaded-wedgeclamps and two shiny bolts.


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By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 12, 2009

This place looks pretty cool. A nice addition to the EP climbing scene. Where can I pick up a bagful of "Fallstoppers"? Does the Mountain Shop carry these?
By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Terrific climb. Will be 4 stars once it cleans up a little more; there's still some unpleasant lichen in the tricky first 30 feet. Above the lower Guillotine roof more lichen is present but doesn't affect the climbing or the gear placements. Good gear the whole way; RPs are very useful in the middle.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 6, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is really, really good. It leads up in difficulty quite nicely and protects, with a bit of thoughtfulness, very well. Honestly, it's a 4 star route and the only thing that detracts from this route is the fact that the crux of the climbing is not independent. Nevertheless, with a single rack in the pack, this pitch makes the hike up the hill worth it! There is currently a fixed #3 BD Stopper above the third overlap. Also, it's possible that the rope could become quite wedged in the first roof/changing corners section; try placing a large stopper there to prevent this from happening, as it makes climbing the upper crux that much more challenging.

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