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Merlin's Beard 

Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Andy Bowen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Andy Bowen on Jul 29, 2014

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Just after the first few moves, setting up for the...


Sit start with your feet low under the obvious overhang. Place your left hand in a good pocket and your right on a small crimp. Throw your left hand into an awesome jug, by the bat poo, and then make a strange heel hook-smear move, make it so you can undercling with your right hand and not pop off. Compress and pull up, the hard part is over. Make your way up the face holds instead of the easy off to the right ;)


This is on the backside (southmost) just to the left of the other climbs already established on this awesome rock.


Pad/use caution, these holds are iffy in places.

Photos of Merlin's Beard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't be a sissy and use the right easy off, go up...
Don't be a sissy and use the right easy off, go up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling up after that glorious, underclinging jug.
Pulling up after that glorious, underclinging jug.

Comments on Merlin's Beard Add Comment
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By Bradley Mark Edwards
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 29, 2014

Thanks for sharing, Andy! I've been wondering if there is something on that side and just never got over to it. Well done, man!
By Andy Bowen
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 30, 2014

You bet, Brad! What a great rock! To think I'd been looking over there for a year and just now got there.
There is another, with a horrendous start, if you go to the back side and crawl down in that cave thing. I broke most everything for good feet, making it a one arm, three finger beastie move to get started, but it is actually very cool.

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