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Merlin 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: I F Howell, I J Allan, 1977
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Michael L on Jul 7, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo showing Magician on the right and Merli...

Description 

An amazing route with some truly memorable pitches. My breakdown:

P1 - start 30 ft left of Magician. Pick your line up to a stance below a dirty splitter crack in the middle of a dark face and a corner on the right.
P2 - follow the corner on the right past some techy moves to a large roof. Go around the roof to the right, passing a couple pitons. Below at tat on top of roof
P3 - THE BUSINESS - go left to a huge dihedral COVERED in bird shit. Place some marginal gear in the corner and stem up using the crack on the left face. Breath a sigh of relief when you reach the massive detached block. Continue up through a 0.75 - #2 sized layback with good feet, and belay on small ledge.
P4 - continue up shitty rock to the left

from EAMG:

"A superb, sustained and well-protected route, probably the best at Hell's Gate. Climb a pillar and blocks, then a right-leaning, widening crack to a ledge right of the flat-topped pillar. A 3m long grassy traverse right leads to the bottom of a long corner-groove system, terminating in a roof 40m above the ground. Climb this over bulge (VI-) to a small ledge on left (30m). Var: slightly harder but better. From just left of the two boulders climb to block on pedestal at 5m, then move right past a roof (VI) to bottom of the long corner; above rejoin the original line. Climb a thin crack right of ledge (VI) to roof, and from a peg in place traverse left to gain a groove left of roof (VI). Climb this to ledge on right (20m). Bridge up the corner on left (VI+) and pass a down-pointing flake to reach a ledge. Continue up the corner, strenuous layback (VI+), to a ledge on right (15m). Steep rock leads leftwards to an easy broken corner and the top (35m)."

This route starts about 30 ft left of The Magician. Located under a huge bird-shit covered dihedral about 1/2way up.

Location 

This route starts about 30 ft left of The Magician. Located under a huge bird-shit covered dihedral about 1/2way up. You can easily see this corner / block from the ground, followed by a slightly overhanging corner crack (layback).


Photos of Merlin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 3rd pitch dihedral and detached block.
The 3rd pitch dihedral and detached block.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from top of P3 belay. Layback visible...
Looking down from top of P3 belay. Layback visible...
Rock Climbing Photo: Merlin
Merlin

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