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The New River Wall
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA and FFA Alan Nelson & Richard Wright, '90s
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo.

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This route is on a small rock along the approach to New River Wall, namely the short (~45 foot) rock just above the river after the Tyrolean just prior to New River Wall. Ascends the left side of the rock. The first few moves are very juggy and fun, then attacks the tricky crux in the crack before attaining good underclings at a small overlap. Pull above this to a large corner , clip and make a couple more juggy moves left to the chains. Fun but short (1.5 stars). Decent route to get the blood flowing a little before hopping on Sonic Youth.


4 or 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Merlin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Merlin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Cappa (c) Jesse Ryan, 2001.
Tony Cappa (c) Jesse Ryan, 2001.

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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 19, 2006

FA and FFA is Alan Nelson and Richard Wright from some time in the '90s.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 11, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

High quality except for the flesh-eating, thumbs-down jam at the crux.

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