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Merit Badge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?????
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Kelley Gilleran on Oct 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

First bolted line on the cliff before we started developing the remainder. Unknown FA. Anchor way too far back to be a good TR anchor.

Location 

First route right of the gully.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Nov 3, 2013

The anchors are in a bad location. This climb should end before the slab about 30' below the current anchor location.
By Steve Montesanto
Nov 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Quite a few unnecessary bolts. Ok climb.
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Aug 14, 2017

Yeah the end of this route is weird. 2 bolts on super easy slab to anchors set far back. Should end at the bolt before the slab, it gets contrived here regardless. Could probably steal the anchors from above, or just slap another bolt in.
By Tatiana C
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is listed in the guidebook as 5.10b/c, and while that grade is too generous, it's also not a 5.9 climb. A 10- climb with an enjoyable first half, and seemingly unnecessary second half on slab. Bring something to extend the anchor and 10 draws if you clip all the bolts.

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