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YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ryan Triplett
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010

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The second of the long route 'Trifecta' at Newhalem. Start on .12c For a Day. Above the anchors, do a ridiculous awkward mantle and pull onto the hanging slab. Trend right up the ramp/slab as for Callisto, but before the anchor for Cinnamon Groove break up and left through the headwall above. Steep, continuous climbing with a couple of harder moves thrown in for good measure brings one to a no-hands rest at a flake. Pull through a few harder moves above the rest and battle through the redpoint crux pulling into the upper groove to the anchor. This difficult two move boulder problem is a bit contrived as it can be avoided simply by reaching left to the giant jug on Hurt Locker and clipping the anchor for that climb. This provides a slightly easier variation.


Again: 80m rope required for full descent to the ground, but a 70m will work if one stops and pulls through at a lower station.


Bolts. 10 or so on the lower section, then perhaps 10 on the upper. Many of the bolts on .12c for a Day are close together and draws can easily be backcleaned. Using shoulder length slings on the first two bolts after leaving the ramp is highly useful for avoiding heinous rope drag, as is skipping or backcleaning the two previous bolts on the ramp. Currently the anchor is two pieces of old static rope with 'biners. The rope has been there for awhile so use caution or bring some chain and quick links along. The final bolt on the right wall of the groove and the Metolius rap hanger anchor above it may be a variation finish but are not part of the normal route.

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By kimmo
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

fun climbing, although the crux seemed to be clipping the chains. not sure how this could be remedied.
By Drewsky
Feb 7, 2014

Yes, the anchor clip on this is a pain. I remember the anchor being sort of above and behind me while I clipped it and it was extremely awkward.

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