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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Mushial 9/99
Page Views: 963
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Mercury is not a bad route at all, but it gets little attention due to its proximity to the classic Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c) just to the right, and the wealth of other classics at the same grade near by. However, I got on it while a friend worked Venus and I found it to be much like Venus but with a really hard crux.

Stick-clip the high 1st bolt (even with the second bolt on Venus). Climb the technical face on small crimps for 15 ft. to a hard move to gain a couple slopers. Move from here to jugs and clip the second bolt. The next section is a bit interesting beta-wise (seems like there are many options and none are easy). Basically I tried to use crimps and a side pull to gain a solid pocket and then the top. The anchor is over the top of the cliff and slightly to the right. I checked the guide book when I got home and it said, "Move left under the roof and come over the overlap (kneepad recommended)."

I heard rumor of a hold breaking on the top section making it harder. Please post if you have any info on this and weather the grade/beta has changed due to the alleged broken hold.


The farthest left route on the cliff.


3 bolts to anchor. Stick-clip the first bolt for sure.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 10, 2007

i tried the guidebook beta... traversing left under the roof, getting a good kneebar and pulling over the roof on miserable crimps to gain the good pocket... it felt way easier to me but if you have more power at your disposal the first way might still be your ticket...

since figuring out my beta i really like this route and think it is well worth while and not a "pile" as folks will say...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Oct 31, 2007

Lee, I think routes like this need people like you to love them.
By Ladd
Oct 31, 2007

Lee is on a mission to climb all the climbs at Rumney I believe. I think he likes climbing so much that he can't differentiate between a bad route and a good one.
Although he has given a bomb to 4 routes ...surely those are routes to avoid at all costs.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 1, 2007

haha, you guys say the sweetest things...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Nov 1, 2007

I have to agree with his bomb for Bonehead Roof. That thing is just bad. But two stars for Mercury? Lee, I think you're too kind.

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