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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2002
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Christa Cline by the finger and hand crack below t...

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  • Description 

    Approach: Go to the main tier of Solaris, traverse left past Contact, and head up a gully on the right. Spot a ledge on the right side of the gully with a line of bolts; this is Twilight Zone. Mephistophiles starts 10' left of Twilight Zone and goes up a left-angling crack system, with one bolt high on the route.

    Climb the left-angling finger and hand crack to a stance by a bolt on the steep upper headwall. Make several difficult moves past the bolt, gaining a flared finger and hand crack. Continue up the flared crack to the top.

    The rock on this route is still quite dirty, with lots of lichen to spice up the crux headwall.

    We top-roped this route after doing Twilight Zone. The protection on the lower part of the route looks reasonable, but the protection in the flared crack at the top looks as if it could be difficult to place.


    Finger-to-hand-sized gear plus one bolt at the crux. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

    Can top-rope after doing Twilight Zone by traversing over from the Twilight Zone anchor to the Mephistopheles anchor.

    Photos of Mephistophiles Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux area.
    BETA PHOTO: The crux area.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mephistophiles.  Climb discontinuous finger and ha...
    BETA PHOTO: Mephistophiles. Climb discontinuous finger and ha...

    Comments on Mephistophiles Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2006
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This climb is better than it looks from the ground and with some thought and effort can be completely festooned with gear, even above the bolt.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Aug 14, 2008

    Nice use of the word "festooned" Tony!
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    May 25, 2012

    This thing is filthy and looks terrible but climbs really well. There is great gear except for the very bottom which is covered in lichen. The bolt is perfectly located right at the only hard move....
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Aug 9, 2013
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This climb does look dirty, especially at the bottom, but it is fun and should not be overlooked.
    By Todd Ra
    From: Golden
    Oct 11, 2014

    Don't hesitate to lead this. The crack above the bolt is definitely flared, but it's more of a problem for jams than gear. There are several solid gear placements but zero solid jams :(

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