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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Carl battles Mephistopheles, 5.13a Photo by Tyler...


Ultra-crimpy. This is the 2nd route from the left that begins up a slight ramp using a sidepull feature (see photos below). At the top of the ramp, the climbing gets thin and hard. The crux is powerful on small holds and bad feet. The 4th bolt is nearly impossible to clip were it's at, so I pre-hung a long draw (I heard Lee skipped it). After the crux, fun climbing leads to a huge rest (the route would be so much harder if it wasn't there, I kind of wish it wasn't). After the rest (skip a bolt in there), the top has a great 5.12 finishing sequence on sidepulls and crimps, with a "thank god" jug to clip the anchors.


Lots of bolts, 10 I think. Closed cold shut anchors.

Photos of Mephistopheles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie takes down Mephistopheles, 5.13a
Jamie takes down Mephistopheles, 5.13a
Rock Climbing Photo: Carl fights Mephistopheles, 5.13a
Carl fights Mephistopheles, 5.13a
Rock Climbing Photo: Much better after the make-over.
Much better after the make-over.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mephistopheles 2
Mephistopheles 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel starting Mephistopheles
Joel starting Mephistopheles

Comments on Mephistopheles Add Comment
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By jamison coin
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I broke the left hand crux hold a couple of weeks ago when I stepped on it. It was a four finger two pad slopey crimp (jug), it is now a three finger quarter pad crimp which makes the clip pretty hard and the crux throw quite a bit harder. Cronin rebolted this thing a couple years ago it used to have ten bolts it now has five. Trying to skip the crux bolt now would be insane, you might as well solo the first half of the route. The anchors have also been dropped a few feet( the old anchors were in questionable rock), which makes for a super pumpy anchor clip or run it out to the old clip jug and clip it at your balls (spicy). Awesome route, with a serious crimper crux!!!
By Greg Parker
From: Cardiff, CA
Sep 1, 2013

Sounds all f'd up. Too bad about the anchors. One of my favorite sequences was up there...
By jamison coin
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

It is a little f'd , I think it could maybe have some bolts moved around and it would be nice to check out the old anchors again, it really sucks clipping the new ones mid crux and its kinda scary going above. I agree with Greg about the old sequence going to the anchors being pretty classic, you almost feel like you cheated clipping those new anchors. I think I might be able to get the Canyon Custodian up there today, we'll see what he thinks.
By Mikel Cronin
Sep 2, 2013

Jaimie if you bring up the drill and hammer ill bring up the hardware. Maybe we can fix this so you quit your bitching! Greg you should just stay out of this, you don't even climb anymore.
By Mikel Cronin
Sep 3, 2013

Route has been revised once again. The first 3 bolts have now been moved. All the clips are good and the crux is well protected even though it appears runout. Jaimie took the ride a few times and ended up well above the ground. The reason the anchors were dropped is because the original set were in a large block. You still do the fun exit moves and clip from the same finish jug, just clip the lower set of anchors. And Greg you can chime in whenever you want, I was just yanking your chain.

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