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Mental Health Project 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncreiff
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on Jul 14, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Start at the two bolt and tat belay station locate...

Description 

This is one of the best moderate routes around! I remember climbing it in the late 90s, thinking it was a great 5.7 since you could clip bolts between gear placements. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the whole area was just being developed. The route seems 5.8, not at all 5.9 as listed in the first edition guidebook. For all the moderate rock climbers out there, this one is GOOD. It is long, and for the most part great rock.


From the tree, follow the easy corner up and left to the first bolt. Continue working up the beautiful slab, laced with step-up ledges and finger cracks to the 2-bolt/chain anchors at the top. Bring some cams (we used 2 small pieces) to fill in the gaps between the well-placed bolts.

Location 

The route is located up and right from the top of the approach 'trail', and found by scrambling 15' up a well-worn approach to the large spruce tree.

Protection 

8 or so bolts, supplemented easily with cams.

A 70m or double rope rap is needed to get all the way down. Or, do as others before and rap to the ledge, then rap to the ground off the first bolt.....


Photos of Mental Health Project Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This amazing trad/sport route climbs great rock le...
BETA PHOTO: This amazing trad/sport route climbs great rock le...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top.
From the top.

Comments on Mental Health Project Add Comment
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By Nick Weicht
From: Valdez, AK
Jul 13, 2014

There is a two bolt belay station located 40' up and left from the base of the spruce tree.
By Adam Orton
From: Moore
Apr 4, 2015

Do not get confused as this sites location and directions of the route are different. this route goes to the left of the spruce and there's a bolt about 35 feet up. don't be tempted to take the route to the right as its a 5.10b unless you're comfortable climbing that with a mix of sport and trad.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 28, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this route is more like 37 meters, don't expect to get down on a 70m rope without down climbing, it's not going to happen. Also not sure about the belay station Nick is talking about? I couldn't find it, you can belay a top rope off some gear about 15 feet up.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Jun 28, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can be safely lead on just gear if that's your thing. Bring some thin stuff, fingers and a hand size or two.
By The Shocker
Jul 25, 2015

Hard to miss the two bolts just above the tree. If you have a full 70 m rope you make it down with about 6 feet of down climbing. No big deal. If you can climb up it, you can climb down it, right?

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