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Mental Bankruptcy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Maria Cranor & Dan Leichtfuss, 1982
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Bryan G on Nov 16, 2009

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Description 

This route traverses most of the west face of Disneyland Dome via a thick band of protruding quartz. It starts near the southern end, a short scramble up and left of Jungle Cruise. As with most traverses, the follower faces the same dangers as the lead climber. The rock is somewhat gritty from a lack of traffic.

Protection 

Much of the climb is unprotected scrambling along a 4th class ledge. A light rack to 2" is useful for protecting the short crack at the start of pitch 1, and there is a good nut placement before the first bolt of pitch 2. All bolts are 3/8".


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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Nov 16, 2009

All bolts are 1/4"s and need to be replaced, including the 2 bolt semi-hanging belay. We missed the turn where you're supposed to start climbing up and kept on traversing the dike. Eventually we down climbed a low angle slab to some boulders and then climbed up an easy-5th crack/chimney to the summit. Took 4 pitches going this way.

The leader and follower should both be solid on gritty 5.10 slab. After the follower unclips the final bolt on p2 there's a couple 5.7 friction moves on questionable rock - a fall here would be disastrous. I had my follower leave a bail biner to stay clipped into the bolt as she made the moves. Then when she was on easier terrain she tied in short with an overhand on a bight and untied her fig8 to pull the rope through the bail biner.

Once on the summit we walked south (towards Jungle Cruise) and then scrambled down a large ramp heading towards the northeast corner of the formation. Here we found a single piece of webbing around a small boulder wedged in a crack. There was a rope tied to the webbing but the rope had been severed about 6 feet down?!? I used what was left of the rope to sling a larger chockstone and got it sort of equalized with the webbing. From here one single-rope rappel got us down. Def bring some extra webbing if you plan on going this way. The guidebook shows a different descent off the northwest corner but we couldn't find this, and I imagine it would either require rappels or 5th class downclimbing. All said and done, this was one of the more adventurous climbs I've done in Jtree, but a good one if cragging in Hidden Valley bores you.
By Randy
Nov 16, 2009

FA: Charles Cole, Maria Cranor, Dan Leichtfuss, 82.

Either rap from the bolt anchor at the end of pitch 2 (100+ feet) or:

Do a Pitch 3: Continue left on the dike (5.7) to where is meets a ramp system. From here, either climb up and right to the summit, or down and left to eventually reach the ground.
By Richard Shore
Dec 10, 2012

Bolts were replaced by Tucker Tech and friend last weekend, 12/08.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Mar 28, 2014

My guidebooks show 4 bolts, but there are only three. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3. After unclipping the 3rd bolt, the second faces groundfall.

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