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Menace To Sobriety 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Oct. 9, 1995--Charles Pechousek, Bob Cartwright
Page Views: 3,501
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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The bolts are far from each other!

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Poke-O is known for many aspects of climbing, but one in particular stands out for many climbers: Technical (read: Off-vertical) face climbing.

    This route adds a more direct start to Cirrhosis, AND a full number grade of difficulty harder.

    7 bolts protect the anchors and the end to a very thin and breath-taking route up a sheer, black face.

    Start by mantling onto a shelf, then continue up the wall passing the crux at about 2/3 height. There are several spots along the climb where the climber will be making somewhat tenuous moves above bolts. So come armed with your vertical dancing shoes, and be sure to keep your wits together for this tremendous affair of the steep.


    Locate the Thunderhead roof at the far right end of the cliff. Menace To Sobriety is the blank, black face to right with a line of bolts up it.


    7 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

    Photos of Menace To Sobriety Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 7 x Steel Rawl 3/8" x 2.5
    BETA PHOTO: 7 x Steel Rawl 3/8" x 2.5
    Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Kern edging up the technical face
    Doug Kern edging up the technical face

    Comments on Menace To Sobriety Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 10, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Linking this w/ P2 of Cirrhosis produces one of the finest 5.10 pitches at Poko, with varied, sustained and intricate climbing throughout. Highly recommended!
    By Jim Lawyer
    Jun 10, 2010

    Derek, there's even a photo of you on this route in the guidebook!
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Lyme, NH
    Oct 23, 2013

    Did a hold or two break on this? Re-climbed it the other day and it felt quite a bit harder (and less enjoyable) than it did a few years back. And the person I was climbing with who had just onsighted a hard 5.11 had to hang on it....
    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Oct 2, 2014
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I don't know what I was thinking calling this a 10c. maybe I was a better face technician back then. Anyway certainly felt like solid 10+ almost 11-.
    The bolts are starting to show their age but are still safe IMHO. I will be changing them out for glueins. What do you guys think about how its bolted? Does it need more bolts? And it's possible to extend it to 35m.
    By Derek Doucet
    Oct 4, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    No more bolts in my opinion! It's a little spicy as is (which is part of the appeal), but totally reasonable. It's such a great route as is. No need for more. 10+ seems fair, and consistent with other Poko face pitches.
    By Jim Lawyer
    Oct 6, 2014

    Hi Chuck, you created a superb route here!

    I think the existing protection placement is masterful. If you think it can be longer, then yay!!! If you do, something to consider is to keep the lower anchor for those with 60m ropes? (Also, it's a useful anchor for the mixed/ice route that starts up the Thunderhead corner.) Another consideration is that this is the first pitch of an amazing, three-pitch, full-length linkup (MtS to Cirrhosis to Under the Influence).

    Glue-ins are nice for sure, but perhaps overkill for this type of rock. SS is more than adequate.
    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Oct 3, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Replace all the bolts and anchor today. Almost added a bolt to where the optional gear placement is. Didn't do it. 7 shiny glue-ins and ring anchor. I did move the anchor off the large flake and put it to the right of the crack. Still on the same stance. Enjoy!
    By Jim Lawyer
    Oct 4, 2015

    Awesome news Chuck! Thanks for the community service.
    By Evan Kirk
    Sep 16, 2016

    As said before, use this to get to p2 of Cirrhosis and you will not be disappointed. Great climb on its own, even better with the linkup.

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