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Men Who Pause 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tedd Thompson & Pokey Amory, 1980s
Page Views: 238
Submitted By: R.Walters on Apr 1, 2016

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Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

Awesome line in Scary Canyon established by Tedd Thompson and Pokey Amory. The lower half presents typical Black Cliffs tricky climbing on polished basalt and the technical crux of the route with slightly sporty bolt spacing (a stick is clip useful for the start). Milk an okay rest below the headwall and enjoy the spectacular finish on positive steep edges and pockets. This is one of the better sport routes in the canyon.

Location 

Just right of the 'Married Man' crack. Look for the tan-colored high first bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts, chains.

The upper bolts were replaced and placements re-engineered by Brad Heller a while back.
The lower bolts and anchors were replaced by the ASCA in 2016.


Comments on Men Who Pause Add Comment
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By R.Walters
Apr 1, 2016

Epeldi's guide lists this one as 11b. IMO, it's a letter harder - hopefully others can chime in. Either way, one of the best at the relative grade!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 1, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Indeed I did re-engineer this routes finish circa 2004. I believed at the time that it was in the best interest of the small group of climbers who cared, and my actions were encouraged by my peers at the time. IMO it made for a much better route- certainly one of the few gems on the Boise basalt. We always called it 11d with the direct finish. I think it's probably closer to 55' tall. It wasn't until more than a decade later that Tedd caught me off-gaurd when he uploaded on me with his anger that I had re-engineered his route. Funny thing is I never imagined he would care, and him being "unavailable" at the time I admit I never attempted to contact him. Sincere apologies publiclly to Tedd! You're welcome everyone else;)

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