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Memory Block 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bryan Pletta, 2005
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Nov 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

If you're looking for some solitude at the Grotto, this route will help you find it. Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Memory Block is the right route of the two.

Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge. Head up and right using some cracks to gain a nice stance on the arete. Stick to the very positive arete for four more clips before you need to figure out a way to head left across the clean face to a positive but hard to see crack. A horizontal crack/ledge and opportunities for hand jams take you to the shared anchor with Prescribed Burn.

Location 

Hike uphill from the lower Grotto past Ojo (del Diablo) on the big, blunt arete. For another photo of the area, see this photo from Vaino's website.

Apparently you can walk around the small ridge below the route to gain the belay ledge but we found the short fourth class scramble up the ridge's north side was reasonable.

Protection 

9 bolts to a shared anchor with Prescribed Burn.


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By Sean Mulle'
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Recommend taking the extra two minutes to go around and hike up the south side of the ridge. The north scramble looked a bit steep.

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