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Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) S 
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Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Queen and Kevin Caudill
Page Views: 8,970
Submitted By: JacobD on Sep 2, 2007  with updates from Idaho Bob

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Katie leading pitch 4


The crux comes on the 6th and 7th pitches which in my opinion both go at 5.8+. Take plenty of quickdraws because the crux is slabby, but the bolts are quite close together at the hard parts. On some of the easier pitches there is decent runout. All bolted anchors. Comes really close to the regular route at pitch 5 or so.

Additional user submitted route info:
Some more info on the pitches 1-5.7, 2-4th, 3-5.4, 4-5.7,5-5.8, 6-5.8+, 7-5.8, 8-5.7 (5.9 if you follow the bolt line over the roof and do not go left)


Starts a little bit to the right of the regular route. Follow the trail past a big dihedral and then look up for the first bolt. The start is marked by a carin. The first bolt is hard to find so look carefully. You can either rap the route with double rope rappels or walk off to the right. The walk off is steep and requires some down climbing. Then some bushwhacking through the gully. It follows a trail the whole way back down to the base. An obvious landmark is looking at the high point and then walking a little bit to the right.


13 quick draws, cord and locking biners for anchors plus a pink tricam to protect the move over the roof on P6.

Photos of Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great bolted anchors on the MR.
Great bolted anchors on the MR.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris at one of the belays.
Chris at one of the belays.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1/3 the way up, looking down.
1/3 the way up, looking down.
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up, looking up.
Halfway up, looking up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down onto a sea of granite!
BETA PHOTO: Looking down onto a sea of granite!
Rock Climbing Photo: The triple crack system in the middle is the regul...
BETA PHOTO: The triple crack system in the middle is the regul...

Comments on Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 4, 2016
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great climb! If this were in Colorado it would get done all the time (along with the Regular Route). I might take a finger sized cam to avoid the big runout on pitch 6 next time. Not too many 1000' sport climbs in the US, definitely check it out if you are in the area. Bring your slab shoes, my toes still hurt...
By jhump
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I did the Regular Route a few years back, then a few days later did the Memorial. The Memorial was rather ho-hum after the classic Regular. A few too many bolts for my liking. 1/2 to 1/3 the hole count would probably be adequate. Oh well, it was better than being at work. Heading up there next week and will try the harder routes on the left side. Might just do the Regular Route for fun too.
By supersexaphonic
Jul 18, 2011

My wife and I just did the Memorial Route. For the most part I really liked the climb, but, in my opinion, its more like solid 5.9 than a 5.8. I give the climb two out of three stars.
If I do this climb again I will definitly bring a yellow or green alien for the roof. The move inst too hard, but I was at least 15 feet out at that point (so 30-40 footer was possible). I dont really think a new 5.8 leader would like this climb as they would be run out often at their limit. This climb, to me, is a 5.9 route for solid 5.10a/b leaders.
Also, the last two pitches are a bit redundant (for those of us who tire of slab climbing easily) in that they are pretty much the same move over and over-put foot on nothing and stand up, repeat. A nice option would be to climb the memorial route to the top of pitch six (the crux) and then take the regular route to the top or rap from here. Two ropes to rap! The regular route is ten feet to the left at the top of pitch six.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Cruised this on monday. All the blots look good, only one lose hanger but still bomber. Fun climb, its 9 pitches if you stop to belay off the set of semi rusty anchors just after the first crux, Pitch 6? Agree with 5.8+ rating.
By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Seemed a bit soft for 5.8, and there were about 3 times as many bolts as I'm used to seeing on a slab climb, even on the easy pitches . . .
That said it's a nice long climb on good rock with some great views.
By KyleKD
Jul 26, 2011

Bring your sticky shoes! Beautiful rock and setting. There were some bolts (a spinner on the third pitch) that had been chopped and replaced--everything was very bomber. I think the 5.8+ rating is accurate. We used a nut on the roof and it made the experience all the better. Thanks for putting it up!
By K.C.
Aug 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My son and I did this climb 2 weeks ago. Our second multi-pitch sport route and a whole lot of fun for us. We thought that it was a 5.8+ or 5.9. The climb was just an amazingly beautiful, enjoyable climb for us. However, a there are few things I would like to point out that I don't think are mentioned here yet. First, the approach. Not really bad, but plan on 30 minutes + whatever amount of time it takes you to find a way across the river - which did not seem obvious to us. Second, having come from mostly climbing at the Red River Gorge I felt like there was a lot of run out. Not dangerous, because its a slab, but made me a bit nervous. Took a pitch or two to get over. Finally, the decent ... . From the description here I thought it would not be too bad, but wow. The path/walk-off did not seem obvious to us and got hairy fast. After fearing for our safety we came upon a tree with 5 different colors of webbing and a rap ring that could be used to double rope repel out of danger. We added our gear and made it down safe. It would be great if someone could post a google earth image, map, or something about where the "real" walk-off is. Clearly several groups have ended up where we did and probably shouldn't have?
By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

K.C.: I agree about the river crossing not being obvious. It took us awhile to find our way to it the first time we went to SR. There are actually two spots with logs to cross on, one involves less bushwhacking than the other.

Regarding the descent, I think you were on route. It's steep and loose. The 4th class chimney downclimb actually isn't as bad as it looks from above, and in my opinion is the least sketchy part of the descent. There are numerous loose rocks just waiting to be dislodged and hit someone on the portion of the descent before the chimney. In my opinion by the time you've made it to the rap anchors the worst is over. After the chimney it is still steep and bushwhacky, but at least there aren't any more loose blocks.

Plan on 20-30 minutes to walk down if not rapping.
By Trevor.
From: Boise, ID
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Linked the first 2 pitches on a 70m. Really fun and mellow climb. I would say the cruxes are right around 5.8, with the vast majority of the climbing 5.7 or easier. Will probably simul-climb the first 4 pitches next time. No big runouts, even on the easy pitches. We brought a few small cams as recommended in the comments, but didn't place them at all. You can place a .5 C4 around 2/3rds up, but the move it protects is less than 10 feet out and isn't hard. Bring lots of runners, rope drag would be pretty bad without them. Walk off was fairly easy to figure out, just top out and find the second gully to climbers right and descend it. Follow a steep loose trail down, and downclimb or rappel past a loose chimney. Try not to dislodge rocks on the way down, the descent is a bit of a bowling alley. The trail eventually brings you right back to the base of the route.
By S.Lee
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Had a great time on this route. We had no problems finding the approach, as of 20 July 13 there is a very obvious log jam just below the turnout with solid logs that was no problem to cross. We did however have issues finding the start of the route, thought the dihedral mentioned in the description was one that starts the standard route. Turns out its a very large right facing dihedral quite a ways to the right. I would have to agree with the above comments that there are some 5.9 moves on the route, not many but a few. Other than those I agree the rest is 5.8+ at the hardest. We noticed probably 3 or 4 loose hangers, one that I was able to hand tighten. We took a few small cams and nuts and didnt see anywhere worth placing them, the bolt protection is adequate. If the roof people are talking about placing gear in is the same one I am thinking of (first moves above the older anchor bolts??) I thought once I reached the roof it was pretty smooth climbing until the crux at the end of the pitch. Anyways a great route
By Matthew Abbott
Aug 21, 2013

Midnight ascent 08-17-13. Car to car in 5 hours. We did it in 6 pitches with simul-climbing intertwined. Good times.
By Jeff Botimer
Aug 29, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can be done with a 50m rope. Most of the pitches use all 50m but it was clearly bolted with that in mind. Great route, fantastic view.
By Bradley Parker
From: Ellensburg, Washington
Sep 25, 2014

Awesome Climb! Felt like they 5.8+ was a little steep, with the exception of one section of pitch(5 or 6?). That being said conditions were perfect. Skip the first set of anchor bolts, there are others about 10 or so meters up. If you try to belay from the first anchors you will fall short for the next set. Not that big of a deal though either way as climbing is probably 5.5 or less there. Down climb is pretty easy to follow, look for cairns, a slow and cautious decent is HIGHLY encouraged here. 5 hours car to car with a bit of summit lounging thrown in.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Jun 4, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed for maybe the 10th time, trailhead is just 10 miles from my house and visitors always want to climb it.
Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined with a 70m and about 10m of easy simul-climbing.
The move over the small roof on P6 can be protected with a pink tri-cam. Don't get bored on the first 5 pitches, the fun starts on P6. P6 and P7 have a few thin friction moves, thus the + rating.
By Chris Brookman
Jul 3, 2016

Here is more detailed beta about each pitch as of July 1st 2016:

Pitch 1- 5.6, 7 bolts to Rap Hangers.

Pitch 2- Class 4, 2 bolts to Rap Hangers.

Pitch 3- 5.5, 7 bolts to Rap Hangers.

Pitch 4- 5.6, 7 bolts to Rap Hangers.

Pitch 5- 5.8, 11 bolts to Rap Hangers. *loose hanger on bolt #11

Pitch 6- 5.8, 12 bolts to Rap Hangers. *crux pitch, don't use the two bolt anchor with standard hangers between bolts 4 and 5

Pitch 7- 5.7, 10 bolts to Rap Hangers.

Pitch 8- 5.8, 8 bolts to Rap Hangers.

With the exception of bolt 11 on pitch 5 and the extra set or anchors on pitch 6, all bolts and hardware were in very good condition.
By mills101
From: Whitefish, MT
Oct 4, 2016

My wife and I have only been climbing for three years and got this done in August. We had a dang good time! A great multi-pitch for the newer climber. For people that have never climbed slab like this, we felt the route hovered around 5.6/7 most of the way, but the three or four cruxes throughout, while not exposed nor impossible, felt higher (to us) than anyone here has mentioned. Take that as you will. The trails were very easy to find, up and down. Going at our own pace, we were seven hours, car-to-car. I did protect the "roof" (which is more like a bulge) with a cam (either .5 or .75, I forget); while definitely not necessary, the move above the "roof" isn't a gimme and a fall here would be pretty bad. Enjoy!

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