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Raco de les Espadelles
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Memoria Histerica 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009

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The juggy, slabby mid-section.

Description 

The best moderate at Espadelles, beginning with a stout boulder problem and finishing with pumpy climbing up the ultra-featured gray face. The moderate center offers easy climbing on big jugs on tan rock.

Begin in a cirque of five routes. Use the cheater tower to reach a sinker pocket 4" below the first bolt. Hike your feet up, hit the vertical slot & mantle into the sloping bowl. Easy terrain leads up & right to the corner. Continue up & right to the gray panel, where juggy flakes & pockets lead up to the anchor.

Location 

Walk to the far right end of the Espadelles cliffline. Just after passing 4-5 routes of steep tufa lines you will reach a shallow cirque with ~5 routes. This is the right-most line in this cirque. This is about 50 yds left of where the cliffline makes a big turn to the left.

Protection 

~10 bolts to 2BA.


Photos of Memoria Histerica Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The steep, juggy finish.
The steep, juggy finish.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the bouldery start of "Memoria His...
Just above the bouldery start of "Memoria His...

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By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 3, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Don't be deterred by the bouldery start. Feels a bit height dependent but both this and the neighbor to the left are much better once the starts are surpassed. Worth pulling through the beginning should that be the case.