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Memorable Misery 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 450', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0 [details]
FA: Aaron Bourdon & Matt Swanson
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: Aaron Bourdon on Aug 15, 2008

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View From The Top

Do not use the old Chimney Trail. MORE INFO >>>


FYI: I am a sport climber and not good at estimating traditional grades on loose rock.

Reference Picture:
Memorable Misery Pitches 2, 3, 4, 5

Pitch 1) 5.5 Loose slate like rock makes the climbing feel more difficult. Protection is there but be careful of the loose rock.
Pitch 2) 5.7 A corner crack leads to face/crack moves. As the climbing becomes more vertical the loose rock became smaller pieces (fracturing actually made great positive edges.) I believe this pitch would clean up much better than pitch 1 for enjoyable climbing. The protection seemed quite solid.
Pitch 3) 5.7 These were our 3rd and 4th pitches but they can easily be connected.
Pitch 4) 5.7 A0, We really wanted to make this a free ascent but the last pitch defeated us. Probably would be a 5.9 climb on clean rock. This pitch was scary (all the previous loose rock and lichen compromising smears affected our nerves) but has the potential to make this climb classic for the area. We used a right crack system to get to a slope allowing us to traverse left into a hand crack. The hand crack (technical crux) leads a larger crack (psychological crux.)

This climb reminded me slightly of Whitney-Gilman, Franconia Notch. However it should not be climbed with parties above you until the rock can be confirmed as safe from significant rock fall.

After pitches 1 & 2 the rock becomes more solid but loose rock is still abundant. If the slate like rock of pitches 1 & 2 could hold bolts and stay clean there would be potential for some more difficult, very interesting looking variations/new routes.

Maybe next season we will get a chance to return to clean this line and put up another route. At the same time,
I think it would be a good idea to place some bolt anchors so climbers can rappel off the climb. (this would clean up the route, prevent the last belay station from being in a fire ant mecca, make the descent easier, and would prevent erosion of the chimney descent.


Reference Picture: Overview Picture 1

Memorable Misery = Left (Alternate colors red & green between pitches)
Recommend that it is done in four pitches. We did it in five pitches due to route finding. See next picture.
Discovery = Middle (Pink)
Chimney = Original Descent (Orange, Closed due to erosion/rockfall danger)


Standard Rack (up to #5 Camalot) Extra mid range nuts and hexs can really zip it up.

Photos of Memorable Misery Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Memorable Misery Pitches 2, 3, 4, 5
BETA PHOTO: Memorable Misery Pitches 2, 3, 4, 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview Picture 2 (Pitches as originally done)
BETA PHOTO: Overview Picture 2 (Pitches as originally done)
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview Picture 1
BETA PHOTO: Overview Picture 1

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