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Memo From Lloyd 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,437
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on Apr 7, 2008

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Beautiful evening

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A steep, boulder problem of a route, it is the obvious crack on the right side of the dome. Start up the VERY steep wall with a big flake, and then into a straight-up crack with knobs all around. While the crux is down low and difficult to protect (only because the wall is so steep) if you can boulder through you will find good rests and ample protection. A two-bolt anchor with rap rings awaits at the top


Mostly thin pro, nuts and TCU's, perhaps up to a .75 camalot.

Photos of Memo From Lloyd Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing the first piece on Memo From Lloyd.  Fri 2...
Placing the first piece on Memo From Lloyd. Fri 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up Memo From Lloyd.  Fri 2 Sep 2011.
Leading up Memo From Lloyd. Fri 2 Sep 2011.

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By Josh Audrey
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Felt more like an 11 than 10+, but I'm not strong.
By peachy spohn
Sep 4, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

In the new Supertopo Memo From Llyod was upgraded to 11b.
By Lukasz M Fidkowski
From: Berkeley, California
Aug 5, 2012

You can place up to #2 camalot on this route
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 4, 2015

I concur that this felt more like low 5.11.

You can set up a toprope on this one with a creative climb to the top starting right of the route - while rapping the toprope setup, leaving a couple directionals on the first half of the climb will prevent big swings from TR falls. Although short, the route is a worthy endeavor to practice steep jam cracks.

At 6' tall, my beta for the start was to lieback the lower flake, and then paste a high left heel hook behind the base of said flake. This allowed me to get the first fingerlock and handjam established before having to pull out that foot and go straight in the main crack (crux).

This is one of those routes that goes a lot easier once you dial in the beta for your toe-jam and hand-/fist-jam sequencing.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Nov 15, 2015

The onsight is so, so much harder than knowing the moves. And you can set up a TR off the bolts just walking around to the right if you don't want to climb something else. I squeaked out the senility flash on it last summer which made me pretty happy.

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