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Melungian Brotherhood 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 3,192
Submitted By: Davis13au on Mar 22, 2010  with updates from Nick Leiby

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Melungian is on the left.


Long slab route that has some thin spots but is pretty fun. Good place to practice leads. I'm not sure about 5.8 but that's what it's currently rated at.


South of the first down climb area and just to the right of Ass Cannibal


7 bolts and a few good places to place pro. #1 cam or a pink Tricam works well. This route now has a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings, on a ledge that is great for top-managed belays. The walkoff is easy from this ledge.

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By Mark Maier
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is one of the best slab routes at Buzzard's. Unlike most of the others it has reasonably sustained climbing at a constant level, instead of just a few moves interspersed with long easy stretches.
By Travis Senor
From: Mailing Address in NC
Sep 22, 2013

Sustained and slabby. Great route. Be careful not to follow the weakness too far to the right...unless you have gear.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 11, 2014

Great route. A large tree near the base of the climb broke midway up the trunk and fell over (sometime before August 2014). Doesn't affect the route but makes a fall near the start (or a fall by the belayer) a potential problem.
By Spencer Perry
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My partner and I did not want to have to hike back down after we topped out, so I slung a tree and we rapped with a 70m rope, knowing we wouldn't get to the ground with the plan to swing over to another tree for a second rap. With rope stretch, and an extended rappel (2.5 ft), we made it to the first bolt and were able to down climb from there (probably class 4 climbing). Saved a ton of time and grabbed the sling on the way back to the car.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Two bolt anchor and rings at the top as of 10/30/16.

With a 60m rope, you can get down by first rappelling from the top (or being lowered with your belayer staying just below the first bolt), then traversing left to the bolted anchor for Kimberly, and then doing another short rappel to the ground. Alternatively, belay your follower up from the top and then walk off.
By AlexJordan
From: Cambridge, MA
May 8, 2017

Climbed this with a 70 meter rope, which was not long enough to belay a climber or rappel down to the ledge below the first bolt. We ended up belaying down to the tree on the left side of the climb, even with the second/third bolts, and rappelling down from that tree. Climber should have some long slings to rappel off the tree, and then they'll be fine.

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