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The Melting Mud Wall
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Melting Into Madness 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tyler, Greg, Aaron, Zack
Page Views: 3,718
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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2 clips in, only 18 clips to go...

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  • Description 

    A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11


    a shallow dihedral on the middle to left of the Far East Gate.


    10 or 20 (or 21?) draws with some being long runners if you want to link both pitches, a 70m rope gets up and back down to the ground.

    Photos of Melting Into Madness Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking for the next move on The Bird is the Word,...
    Looking for the next move on The Bird is the Word,...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing out of the steep section of the shallow d...
    Climbing out of the steep section of the shallow d...

    Comments on Melting Into Madness Add Comment
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    By Ryan Brough
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Jul 12, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    The second pitch is named The Bird is the Word and is rated 5.10d, just like Melting Into Madness; however, it is still best to be linked as one long pitch.
    By Alec LaLonde
    Jul 10, 2008

    Nice climb -- business is getting past the hump above the dihedral. Felt a bit easier than .10d, though I didn't do the second pitch.
    By Ben Folsom
    Aug 7, 2010

    As Ryan said, really nice as one long pitch. A 70m gets you down no problem.
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 5, 2015

    There is now another route sharing the start to this route and going right at the 4th bolt. Nice route, maybe 10c?
    By Braden Eberhard
    Aug 24, 2015

    There definitely is a route to the right. Climbed it thinking it was Repeat and Offend and thought it was a bit harder than 10b. I'd say upper end of 10c however it might be a 10d if going off the same rating system that Melting Into Madness was judged off of.
    By Cassidy Thomas
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 5, 2016

    Yeah there are three variations that break off the first four bolts. After the first four bolts are clipped, go left for Repeat and Offend (10b), straight up for Melting in Madness (1st pitch, 10d) and the Bird is the word (2nd pitch, 10d), or go right onto another route. I haven't climbed the route to the right yet.

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