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Jason Haas on the unknown 5.11 on the North face o...
This is a tough route even as a TR and the effort and energy to get the marginal and meager protection afforded would not make the route any easier... I am not guessing at its grade on lead. Start up the face on odd holds and with poor gear (5.9) to reach the bottom of a left-leaning crack (10a) where you can place a piece or two of small, so-so gear (pink tricam or an alien) and then up and right to a more vertical crack and some more so-so pro (stopper) then launch up the crack getting small gear when it is offered in coincidence of having a decent enough stance to place it. If leading, some of the crux moves will be well above questionable gear. Although a long fall would be clean, there is the ground to worry about. Finish up a vertical crack and seam with many face holds left of the crack, past and just left of a black streak in the wall.
Just to the right of God's Own Drunk, there is a yellow and grey wall articulated by some crack systems and a black vertical stripe. This climb follows the cracks and some face holds up the blank face to intersect a slightly left-leaning crack, then up past a few tiny plants to a better crack, then up to the bottom of a black streak, From there, continue up a crack and seam with face holds to the left up the wall to just left of a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. There is a second system just right of this with a 3' roof at mid-height.
A few nuts and cams from tiny to 2.5" Falling would be generally a bad idea. I imagine someone has lead this, but not me. Good TR, but use your own software and pay attention to the mini-links between the bolts and the fixed slings. Accessible after climbing God's Own Drunk (8+) P1 and traverse over, or on rap from the top.
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 13, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Excellent line, one of the best in the park! No need for the R rating, or even PG13...Beginning is thin for gear, but it is there. Bomber placements are all over this route.