REI Community
Redgarden - Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland T 
Apple Strudel T,S 
Art Of Slappiness, The S 
Art's Spar T 
Better Layton Never S 
Blueberry Boodle T 
Body Tremors T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Consummation Nite T 
Daedalus T 
Deadpoint T 
Dirty Deed T 
Doub-Griffith T 
E.L.100 T 
Electric Aunt Jemima T 
Exhibit A T 
Exit Stage Left T 
Flashdance T 
Fresh Garbage T 
Grand Giraffe T 
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 
Icarus T 
Ignition S 
Italian Arete T 
King Cobra, The T 
Magic Bus T 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Magic Route T 
Mellow Fellow T 
Mellow Yellow T,S 
Memory Lapse T 
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 
Much Slater (left variation) T 
Neptune's Bible T 
Neurosis T 
One and a Half Hours of Power T 
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 
Parting Shot T,S 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 
Pigeon Crack T 
Psycho Pigeon T 
Psychosis T 
Reaper T 
Rocky Raccoon T 
Roll Over Rover T 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 
Rover T 
Ruper T 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 
Short Arm Inspection. T 
Smoke & Mirrors T 
Song of the Dodo T,TR 
South Face of Tower One T 
Super Slab T 
Superspar T 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 
To RP or not to Be T 
Untouchables, The S 
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 
Vertigo T 
West Arete (of T1), The T 
Without A Net T 
Yellow Fellow T 
Yellow Spur, The T 
Ytrid Deed, The T 

Mellow Fellow 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Suggested by Chace and R. Briggs
Page Views: 3,680
Submitted By: slevin on May 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The second of 2 - he reappears on the next swing a...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is another linkup for the uninhibited. Mellow Fellow combines the exciting, strenuous Vertigo Die-rect roof, the classic Vertigo, and the complete Mellow Yellow to produce a stiff bit of Eldorado mayhem.

    Begin on the West Redgarden trail, a bit beyond the popular Mr. Natural.

    P1: Climb a clean, sparsely protected offset dihedral (5.9) to a belay just below the huge roof (2-bolt anchor).
    P2: Tackle the roof (crux of Vertigo Die-rect, 5.11d) after arranging the requisite assortment of gear - a bit of a pump getting this all in. Proceed to the Vertigo ledge.
    P3: Combine P1 & P2 of Vertigo, fun, well-protected 5.9 corners. Belay at a spectacular ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
    P4: Combine P3 & P4 of Vertigo, the crux, overhanging dihedral (5.11b) and the roof finish. Doing the dihedral and roof together creates one of the finest 5.11 leads in the canyon.
    From the summit, work north to the upper, upper reaches of the Upper Ramp, to a point 90 feet below an imposing, A-framed roof (Mellow Yellow).
    P5: Climb corners up and right under the roof (licheny, 5.9 or so), tackle the roof crux, then up and slightly right to a stance with slings.
    P6: Proceed up a corner with less-than-inspiring gear, and either climb it directly (5.11c), or find some buckets on the right edge to shoot for (a little spooky but easier, maybe 5.11b). Now punch straight up the headwall and belay.
    P7: Climb the steep, blank face above clipping a few bolts on the way. This is the crux of the linkup, a very sharp, technical bit of 5.12a (or harder). Continue up the nebulous upper reaches of the wall.

    Now do a lap on the Naked Edge to warm down.


    The usual little gadgets and stuff, including RPs, TCUs or Aliens, nuts, and cams to 3". The rock is generally sound, although a couple sections (in particular the Vertigo Die-rect roof) climb through broken, maroon bands and are somewhat fractured. Expect to climb up to 5.9 or low-end 5.10 a bit above your gear, with bad fall potential. The cruxes protect well, although placing gear can be strenuous. The technical crux (the Mellow Yellow headwall) is protected by a couple of (widely spaced) bolts...mid-'80s vintage.

    Photos of Mellow Fellow Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes gets the big swing as he fall-ows the c...
    Josh Janes gets the big swing as he fall-ows the c...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Phil Gruber pulling the 11d+ roof on Mellow Yellow
    Phil Gruber pulling the 11d+ roof on Mellow Yellow

    Comments on Mellow Fellow Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By David A. Turner
    Nov 28, 2001

    Another great link-up is Suparete to Doub-Griffith to Mellow Yellow ("Hello Jello"?). David A. Turner
    By Dr. Dan
    From: Steamboat Springs, CO
    Dec 3, 2002
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Another link up that is fun and not as hard as the Vertigo start is to do the direct start (10b) on the Yellow Spur. At the top of P4 go right up a lose ramp until you are under a large bulge. The bulge is solid and fun and looks harder than it is (9). Once over the bulge angle right up into the big roof on Mellow Yellow. Climb the roof using the crimp on the right facing wall and reach for a pincher hold out left. Once over the roof there are ample tiny crimp holds, but no pro. Move right about 8 ft to a some fixed gear and a sling. From there work up and slightly right again to a corner and climb an 11c slot on less than inspiring pro to exit. The rest of the climb is covered as above.
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Mar 12, 2003

    Does anyone know what I might find for gear in the first Mellow Yellow roof? Is there gear in the roof itself, or do you have to gun it off gear at the top of the slab?Sincerely,Cowardly Fellow
    By Brad Bond
    Mar 12, 2003

    There is a fairly decent pin in the middle of the roof, which protects the crux getting to the lip(5.11d +). Have a 2.5 friend ready to fire into a bomber placement just above the lip, then be prepared for 10+ slab moves to the belay stance.
    By Andy Donson
    Mar 13, 2003

    Plus, if you use double ropes you can utilize an excellent nut placement (#5 I think) in the flake on the left wall before embarking.
    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Mar 17, 2003

    Thanks for the info guys. I guess I have no excuse not to give it a try now......
    By Dr. Dan
    From: Steamboat Springs, CO
    Feb 27, 2004
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Probably a little late, but there is a good fixed pin in the vertical seam going up to the roof that is bomber (would be a nasty swing if you came off above the roof). There is a fixed nut with a sling about 8 feet to the right after you get over the roof. There is fixed gear right below the second roof.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 27, 2005
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    The swing off of the pin isn't that bad. I've taken a few bombers on it! The belay above the roof still sucks a little though. I replaced most of it last fall, but it really leaves something to consider before you want to lead fall from the 11c pitch onto it.
    By Jesse Huey
    Sep 15, 2012

    My favorite Eldo Link Up:

    First pitch of the Wisdom, 10d, to Scary Canary crux, 12b, to linking Le Toit, 10b - Plastic Jesus, 11-, up the ramp to the Mellow Fellow linking the 5.11d with the 11c, finish with the 5.12 boulder problem finish!

    Not to be missed!

    Sidebar: I took Honnold up here: he linked the entire Mellow Fellow into the Direct in a single 80 meter pitch, and he didn't seem to break a sweat, seriously amazing to watch.
    By WadeM
    From: Golden, Co
    Jul 28, 2016

    Second pin on second pitch is no longer there. It got pulled during a fall this morning. A decent RP can be placed near where it pulled, but be aware.

    Great route!

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About