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Melange 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Sic Nabo
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on May 1, 2017

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Description 

Listed in the Bigfoot Guide as another open project (with a very inappropriate name). Past the anchor for Half-Leper, it cuts right climbing delicate moves over a ledge. With that much rope out, you've never been so happy to see such closely spaced bolts. The last 40' is consistently very technical on untraveled rock and very very tenuous in for most of the way, with the occasional half rest. The crux comes around 20' from the end. I have not the slightest idea how to pull it off comfortably. The route has a lot of lichen, so I'm doubtful it's been traveled much. Climb it and clean it up for me, er, I mean for us.

The route has been climbed finally and thankfully been renamed!

Location 

Start up the Leper and keep right.

Protection 

23 draws.


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By Sic Nabo
Jun 2, 2017
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Needs some loving with a wire brush (as do most climbs at the grotto) but the movement is top notch!

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