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Melancholy Man 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,432
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Upper moves on "Melancholy Man". Hard st...

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  • Description 

    The crux is getting established over the roof.

    Location 

    This is about 100 feet right of Free Willie at the right side of a low overhang. Lower from a two bolt anchor.

    Protection 

    [Ten] draws and a long sling for a horn.


    Comments on Melancholy Man Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 26, 2016
    By Aeon Aki
    Administrator
    Apr 12, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 1, 2008
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

    I thought that the first clip was a little high to get a draw on from a good stance. The feet were shedding on me, which made for some nervousness, given that a fall before the first clip is a 'non-option.' The grade felt about right, probably 11-, but I missed the mono/duo pocket, as it was pointed out to me later. Others said it was easier with that (11a?). It could be good climbing once it cleans up more.
    By Dean Cool
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 31, 2009

    This climb is a one move wonder. Once over the roof continue up the bolts for a 5.9 grade. The rock above the roof is flaky and the rock above that is a bit dirty.
    By Matthew Kennedy
    From: boulder, co
    Apr 12, 2009

    Buddy of mine snapped a large hold off of the lip of the roof. I dodged that falling bastard then decided to hop on the route. I had not been on the route prior to the breakage, but seems it could have gotten a bit harder. The route is fairly loose overall and I would not be surprised to see another get buggered out by unintentionally removing more rock. Remains still, a one-ish move wonder.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Apr 30, 2009
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I think this is a good route, and while it may not be 5.11 for the duration, the top section still ticks in at 5.10c/d. I think the first bolt is way too high off the ground, so consider a stick clip. The problem is that the while the first bolt is just out of reach of clipping from the ground, the fall from this ledge would likely send you to the hospital. Would the FA agree to the addition of a bolt lower down to avoid this possibility?
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Mar 13, 2010

    I'm going to contradict Matt K. The grapefruit sized hold I yarded off and threw at his head (thanks Matt for still catching me) was from the alternate L hand start to this route, Tuesday Afternoon.
    By Kai Huang
    From: Aurora, CO
    May 1, 2010

    If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 9, 2011

    I added a first bolt today, so a stick clip is not necessary. So the bolt count is now 10.
    By Dean Kure
    May 11, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Huge pieces fell of right at the start for me and then super choss pile halfway up. You can avoid the mess in the middle, but look for the nastiness. Not really recommending it.
    By Ken Duncan
    From: Ft Collins, CO
    Sep 12, 2015

    Looks like a crucial foot hold broke off at the start making the route much harder.
    By Rui Ferreira
    From: Longmont, CO
    May 23, 2016
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    All the holds at the roof are solid now, the upper face has some good movement, and I did not find a loose flake.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Jul 1, 2016

    Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't.
    By Crackhead
    Sep 26, 2016
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    So this route is hard, I think the moves to pull the roof are easily V3/V4. I'd give this 11+, and I'm usually a sandbagger. The upper section is .10a/b, and is still fun, but agreed there is suspect rock. Tread lightly and smart. First bolt is placed perfectly, no issues clipping this safely without a stick clip, and I'm 5'9".

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