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Melafots

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Melafots Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,330'
Location: 41.2589, 0.93749 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,479
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Forecast:
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The left end of the Melafots cliff.

Description 

Melafots is Siurana's most popular warmup crag for good reason. For one, its possible to belay from your bivy sack, or while cooking breakfast, as many locals use this cliff as a campground. Second, this cliff offers a tremendous concentration of good moderate routes, a mere 30 seconds walk from the car. Fortunately the cliff's resemblance to the chossy yellow limestone found at several sub-par American venues is only superficial. The rock here is quite solid, and the smooth blocky texture can be quite a relief for raw tips. Must-do moderates include the angular "Trigonometria" (6a+/5.10c), the traversing "Gat Reggae" (6c/5.11b), and the intimidating crack-to-roof "Pizza de Pinya" (7a/5.11d).

Despite its reputation as a warmup crag, there are a number of more difficult lines, such as the neo-classic "Punyatera" (7c+/5.13a), that surmount a series of wave-like bulges at the far right end of the cliff. The left end of the cliff hosts an absurd number of ridiculous 15' tall bolted boulder problems. If nothing else, atleast these routes provide solace in the knowledge that not just Coloradans will bolt anything. All told the cliff hosts about 40 bolted lines, 25 of which could be considered routes, ranging from 5+ (5.10a) to 8b (5.13d), with the vast majority checking in under 5.12.

This cliff faces due South and basks in the sun from sunrise till just before sunset. This is an idyllic place to an enjoy a few easy pitches and watch the sunset.

Getting There 

Park at the castle, and follow the trail that begins from the SE corner of the parking lot for about 8 seconds to reach the cliff.

Climbing Season

For the Siurana area.

Weather station 14.2 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Melafots
Rock Climbing Photo: Garbatx despistax 11c

Garbatx Despistax 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Europe : Spain : ... : Melafots
This awesome route hosts some seriously fun movement and follows a steep crack. Start by making some thuggy moves right off the ledge to a jug horizontal. Practically no feet can make clipping that first high bolt a bit challenging. Once clipped, pull a few easy moves to a second ledge and rest up, it's going to get pumpy quickly. Bust some really fun moves separated by great holds and clean falls. Clear the technical crux about halfway with some fancy footwork and interes...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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