REI Community
Aguja El Cohete
Select Route:
Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas Cosas T 

Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas Cosas 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 14 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: G. Cremaschi & M. Fernandez, 1992
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: beaucarrillo on Dec 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: el cohete, mejor no hablar de ciertas cosas topo ...

Description 

P1 - P5) Start up the rotten gully for about 600 feet. We simuled it but you could pitch it out. There are bolt anchors about every 40 meters as you go. You will rappel back down this gully. All of this is maybe max 5.8 and mostly even easier than that (5.8, 200m).

P6) At the end of the gully, walk right and up dirt/rock ledges to the saddle. Climb the low angle dihedral (5.8) to the end an do a rather improbable traverse around the back side of the mini tower (5.9) to get to the main headwall and belay on bolts (5.9, 50m).

P7) Here's where the good rock starts. Pick the crack on the far right at the end of the ramp/ledge. It starts as thin hands but is mostly fingers in a flare, much like Lumpy Ridge 5.10 or maybe 10+. At the ledge, walk left and keep going up the obvious crack another 50 or 60 feet to the sloping ledge below the hand crack to OW pitch. Belay on bolts (5.10c, 40m).

P8) Climb the hand crack to OW, then step left to a little ledge and belay on good bolts (5.10d, 20m).

P9) Step right and go up a long corner with some loose blocks until you reach a ledge with a fixed pin belay (5.10b, 50m).

P10) Climb a short pitch with tricky, small gear, and then step left to a big ledge (5.10c, 20m).

P11) Climb a low angle hand crack (5.9, 40m).

P12 - P14) Scramble up low angled terrain to the summit (5.6 - 5.8, 80m).

DESCENT: Rappel the route back down the splitter headwall to the left of P9 & P10. You might want to do single rope raps (with a 60m rope) in some spots to avoid a stuck rope. From the bolted anchor at the base of the headwall (2 fatty rings) rap climber's left into the gully (single rope rap). Do two more single rope raps or a double rope rap back to the flat dirt area above the original gully. Rap the original 600' gully in 4x 40m raps off of pretty good anchors. Be ready for rock fall and stuck ropes the entire time. Rapping could easily take as long as climbing this route if you have troubles. You also might want to rap with the rope coiled in saddle bags, especially in the gullies.

Location 

Approach from the trail that leaves the back right corner of the refugio. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the base of the route.

Bivy: There is a pretty nice bivy at the end of the choss gully before going around the little spire that gets you to the headwall. Basically, if you're standing at the base of the v-slot on P6, turn around and look on the north side of the massive perched boulder. You will be well protected from rock fall here and there is a wind wall already. You would also be comfortable sleeping on the massive ledge at the end of P10.

Protection 

Standard rack of Camalots up to #4 (doubles from #.4 to #3), a set of aliens or equivalent, nuts and two 60m ropes. An extra #4 or #5 Camalot is optional for the OW pitch.


Photos of Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas Cosas Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: topo for mejor no hablar de ciertas cosas on el co...
BETA PHOTO: topo for mejor no hablar de ciertas cosas on el co...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is Cohete. The route begins in the gully and ...
BETA PHOTO: This is Cohete. The route begins in the gully and ...

Comments on Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas Cosas Add Comment
Show which comments
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 1, 2014

Route description.

Approach from the trail that leaves the back right corner of the refugio. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the base of the route.

P1 - 5. Start up the rotten gully for about 600 feet. We simuled it but you could pitch it out. There are bolt anchors about every 40 meters as you go. You will rappel back down this gulley. All of this is maybe max 5.8 and mostly even easier than that.

P6. At the end of the gully, walk right and up dirt / rock ledges to the saddle. Climb the low angle dihedral (5.8) to the end an do a rather improbable traverse around the back side of the mini tower (5.9) to get to the main headwall and belay on bolts.

P7. Here's where the good rock starts. Pick a crack and start up the headwall. We chose the far right one at the end of the ramp / ledge, which I think is the correct line but I'm not sure. It starts as thin hands but is mostly fingers in a flare, much like lumpy ridge 5.10 or maybe 10+. At the ledge, walk left and keep going up the obvious crack another 50 or 60 feet to the sloping ledge below the hand crack to OW pitch. Belay on bolts. 40+m pitch. 6b in the book.

P8. Climb the hand crack to OW, then step left to a little ledge and belay on good bolts. 20m. 6b in the book.

P9. I recommend that you choose to step left and go straight up the headwall on a long, great splitter to the ledge above. Books says 6b again. There's a little suspect rock at the start but most of the pitch is absolutely splitter.

Bummer for us, but we didn't go that way. We took the original route which steps right and goes up a long 6a corner with some loose blocks and then another, short "6a+" pitch (which seemed significantly harder than that with tricky, small gear) and then step left to the same ledge. I think you'll enjoy going up the beautiful headwall splitter instead.

We chose to rap from this big ledge vs doing the last 3, low angle pitches to the summit.

P10. Climb a low angle crack hand crack (5.9)

P 11 - 12. Scramble up low angled terrain to the summit. 5.6 - 5.8

Descent: Rappel the route back down the splitter headwall. You might want to do single rope raps (with a 60m rope) in some spots to avoid a stuck rope. From the bolted anchor at the base of the headwall (2 fatty rings) rap skier's right into the gully (single rope rap). Do two more single rope raps or a double rope rap back to the flat dirt area above the original gully. Rap the original 600' gully in 4x 40m raps off of pretty good anchors. Be ready for rock fall and stuck ropes the entire time. Rapping could easily take as long as climbing this route if you have troubles. You also might want to rap with the rope coiled in saddle bags, especially in the gullies.

Gear: I recommend taking doubles from blue alien up to #3 plus a #4 and a set of nuts. Your decision if you want to take a #5 or a second #4 for the OW pitch but it ends up being pretty easy. We had 2x 60m ropes. You could probably get by with 2x 50m. A single 70m rope won't work on this route. I wouldn't take a single 80m rope either.

Bivy:
There is a pretty nice bivy at the end of the choss gully before going around the little spire that gets you to the headwall. Basically, if you're standing at the base of the v-slot on P6, turn around and look on the north side of the massive perched boulder. You will be well protected from rock fall here and there is a wind wall already. You would also be comfortable sleeping on the massive ledge at the end of P9.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Dec 15, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Once you get to the base of the headwall, there are many options. We climbed the 2 6b pitches labeled in the new Arenales guide as Route 1c - Chi Chi Bon Bon. From the belay at the base of the headwall, climb straight up on good handcracks, through a bulge and then into another splitter handcrack, climbing just right of the roof system to a two-bolt belay next to the roofs. 55m. This pitch has a sting in the tail at the end - save a .5 cam for the last 10 ft. The second 6b pitch heads straight up the headwall on more amazing hand and fist jams to a huge ledge. 55m.

You could take a couple of different crack systems to the end of the first pitch described above. From there, one should definitely take the long headwall pitch straight up, avoiding the right facing corners to the right.

Definitely complete the climb to the top because the last three pitches are fun on good rock with a great position and great views.

The first 250-300 m of simul-climbing are on average rock at best, but they are worth it to get onto the incredible headwall of the North Pillar of Cohete.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About