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Megatherion 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Leland Windham, Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 2,666
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Aug 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Enjoying the horn of plenty

Description 

Easy 5.10 climbing leads up to the business--a tough, reachy undercling move to the "horn of plenty" and then some tough moves to gain the vertical finish.

Location 

On the left end of World Wall, left of the Slug Lover dihedral. Just left of Sweet Tooth.

Protection 

Guidebook says 15 bolts. I think it was a couple fewer than that.


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By gregman
Sep 4, 2015

Quite fun alternative to the other 11b routes. Very different and with a distinct crux sequence. Don't stop paying attention after you've made it above the horn, the sequence is balance-y and has a few options...the fall risk isn't over :)

Definitely more like 12 bolts than 15, with fixed gear at the top for lowering, but use your own gear for TR. You can clean this on lower, and it's no more difficult than the other overhanging routes earlier on the wall, but it'd probably be easiest with a follower.
By Eric Stern
From: Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
Sep 14, 2015

It is 12 to the first anchor, 15, all the way to the top I believe.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Dec 29, 2016

Really fun route, boulder sequence to the horn is rad and stays interesting afterward. Nice to get some footwork and smearing on the finish (the rock over here actually has friction!).

Use longer draws (I extended alpine draws) on bolts 4-6 for a straighter rope run up to the horn. Makes for a softer catch if you fall above the horn, I know :)

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