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(k) The Shield
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Control Freak S 
Enigma S 
Gypsy S 
Megalomania S 
Tattoo S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Season: All year
Page Views: 890
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


A few reachy moves off the ground allow access to an ok rest. The middle of the route starts with a tricky crux and follows with sequential climbing. After an optional rest ledge out right continue up the face. Once an undercling is reached high on the route you are faced with the final crux. Sort out this final sequence and you are clipping the anchors.


In the middle of the Shield just right of Control Freak.


12 bolts.

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By Greg Parker
From: Cardiff, CA
Nov 9, 2015

The huge jug above and right of the first bolt is no more... It shifted when I was pulling up on it, and then once my belayer was safely out of the way, the whole thing came off with a couple of tugs. Sorry. It left a lower crimp rail, which makes that section is a bit harder. The new sequence is actually pretty good. The rest of the route, however, is completely covered in a layer of dirt...
By Nick Tunnicliffe
From: Costa Mesa
Nov 9, 2015

Warmed up on this climb today to find the jug at the start non-existent. Doesn't make it any harder than it was though
By Alex Shainman
Dec 8, 2016

Don't listen to that Nick dude, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Haha well actually he does, but the start is definitely harder. It sucks now haha.

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