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Megadose S 

Megadose 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bart Dahneke
Season: south facing...afternoon shade from adjacent wall
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: bheller on Apr 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Megdos is center line

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Swallow this pill 

Your choice: intravenous, oral, or sub-linqual? Get your Megadose! Absolutely one of AF's best, and perhaps the canyons benchmark route of the 12c grade. Sooo MEGA! The only reason I can't say "four stars up!" is the rock is NOT European quality limestone. Memorable sequences on a sweeping exposed face lead to a stiff crux at the top- a true classic "boulder in the sky". This is what 12c used to feel like. If you're sub 6' tall it feels modern 12d.

Location 

Megadose is the center line of the three on the right (southfacing) wall. Begin in a seam/ finger crack, climbing up the gradually steepening wall. Lower off the chains, man.

Protection 

All bolts, but the second is placed up way too high- bring the stickclip. This route used to sport two pins (visible from the ground) at the final moves. Bolts now sit next to the thin crack, replacing the rusted iron. Most bolts an this route are old and corroded badly- Hopefully we'll get around to upgrading the hardware on these walls soon!


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