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YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pat McInerney, Scott Lockart and Erik Paul, August 1993
Season: summer
Page Views: 5,084
Submitted By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Pulling the roof

  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere.


    The left side of the the main cave on Tower 1


    draws, a few long runners, 60M rope. I used a .75 camalot in the middle and its easy to place. Some might want another hand sized piece but don't make too much drag. Please wear a helmet.

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    Comments on Medussa Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2017
    By David Shiembob
    From: slc, ut
    Jul 14, 2007

    Really good. Use runners on bolts 4 and 6 to reduce drag. The .75 camalot is nice to have. The top is wild!
    By lange jeffries
    Jun 17, 2010

    Great exit move!
    By Tim Wolfe
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Apr 23, 2012
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Tricky exit moves figuring which way to go and not blowing the lead.
    By T_jones
    From: Salt Lake
    Aug 2, 2012

    One of the best routes around hands down. So fun!
    By KipHenrie
    From: Farmington, utah
    Aug 4, 2012

    Absolutely stunning. The adrenaline really starts at the top. The exposure is insane.
    By Spencer Weiler
    From: Salt Lake city
    Jul 10, 2013

    it wanders, has semi bad drag, weird bolting, lots of ledgy no hands rests, and the fact that it requires one cam is strange, but I can say it was by far the most fun sport climb i've done in LCC. Lieback the massive flake at the top to glory!
    By split161
    Sep 7, 2013
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    fight the pump on the!
    By Garrett C
    From: SL,UT
    Aug 31, 2014
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Really fun climb, but I definitely struggled near the top and getting to the chains. .75 camelot was very nice to have before the 6th bolt. Very heady and super exposed.
    By bheller
    From: SL UT
    Aug 29, 2016

    Drop Medussa in American Fork and its also the best 5.11 there!
    By CHopwood
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 16, 2017

    I didn't feel like the .75 was needed and didn't use it. The moves are exposed but you are climbing jugs. There's already enough drag without sticking another piece in there. +1 that runners would be helpful (especially on bolt 6).
    By bheller
    From: SL UT
    Sep 12, 2017

    Most climbers will prefer 2 pieces of supplemental finger sized gear in the middle finger flakes section. Standard runners placed in this section on both the bolts and gear render the above rope drag complaints moot. Supplemental gear is never nessesarry until it is. A fall, slip, or rock-break(!) without the cam/s would be devestating and the climbing here is slickery 5.10.

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