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Medlicott Area

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Dozier Dome 
Medlicott Dome, Center 
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Medlicott Dome, Right 
Sticks and Stones 

Medlicott Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.86303, -119.4331 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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A golden granite face

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  • Description 

    Medlicott Dome is perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.

    Getting There 

    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 10.5 miles from here

    53 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',6],['5.8',7],['5.9',8],['5.10',17],['5.11',9],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Medlicott Area

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medlicott Area:
    Holdless Horror   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   Dozier Dome
    Errett Out   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   Dozier Dome
    Bull Dozier   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Dozier Dome
    Errett By Bit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   Dozier Dome
    Scandalous Summer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   Dozier Dome
    Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Bit by Bit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   Dozier Dome
    Cheeseburgers and Beer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   Dozier Dome
    Isostacy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 470'   Dozier Dome
    Felsic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Dozier Dome
    Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    The Yawn   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Cheetos and Everclear   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Dozier Dome
    Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Center
    Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
    Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome, Left
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medlicott Area

    Featured Route For Medlicott Area
    Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the crux of Peace. Photo by Drew Smith

    Peace 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Right
    Peace is one of the greatest face climbs in Yosemite. Maybe the greatest. The second pitch climbs a gold and black ocean of crazy knobs with a bolt every ten feet or so. It's technical face climbing at its finest. There's an 11d p.1start that begins on vertical dark rock with mega thin holds. If you're looking for an easier warm up I would recommend the 5.10 start 20 feet to the right. You need two ropes to rap (even with an 80m)...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

    Photos of Medlicott Area Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome.
    Medlicott Dome.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
    Rock Climbing Photo: summit of Medlicott Dome
    summit of Medlicott Dome
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
    Rock Climbing Photo: That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.
    Medlicott Dome. Photo by Blitzo.

    Comments on Medlicott Area Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By BCramer
    From: Prescott
    Sep 3, 2014
    For an approach we drove 5.1 miles from the meadows store to a small pullout on the left (per a newish Reid/Falkenstein guide, '09?), hiked a climber's trail eastward to a well maintained trail (Tenaya Lake Trail), turned right here and in about 100 yards came to another climber's trail on the left marked with a small cairn. From here the trail pretty much takes a straight, aerobic, uphill line to the base of the cliff at the Smithers route.

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