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Lower Blair II
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Medium Cool 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli and Kip Spence
Page Views: 2,879
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Celyn and I on the cool.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb fingers to an offwidth pod, then to good hands. Reach a ledge and climb 10 feet up a left-facing dihedral to the anchor. Enjoyable climb. Medium Cool starts on the same ledge as Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows, be careful on the ledge, and the belayer should probably anchor in. Kip Spence is the father of famous trial laywer Gerry Spence.

Location 

This is between Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows. Take the trail from the blair parking lot around to the Northwest side of Blair II. Climb up the gully from the notch between Blair II and the Vulture (3/4th) to reach the ledge. Medium Cool is the middle climb on this ledge, going straight up with an obvious pod about 15 feet up.

Protection 

1 set of stoppers, Cams from finger size (green Alien/#0.3 Camalot) to #3 Camalot. Doubles in hand size pieces. You could take a #6 for the pod, but it would make the climbing more difficult, better just to place below and above the pod. The top of the climb has poor quality rock, but easy climbing. Save one #3 Camalot or equivalent for this section. Belayer should build an anchor with hand-size pieces in the horizontal or small stoppers/cams in the crack.


Photos of Medium Cool Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James making it look easy. Photo taken by Celyn Sa...
James making it look easy. Photo taken by Celyn Sa...

Comments on Medium Cool Add Comment
Show which comments
By JNE
May 14, 2007

This thing is a classic, one of the best 10's in Vedauwoo. This has a breif crux so if you are not consolidated on the 10 grade this is a good one to go do. The crux even has a really clean fall.
By Brian Weinstein
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Thanks for adding this route Pablo. A classic for sure with a distinct crux where the thin crack peters out in the OW pod. Continue to the top where you'll find two new rap rings.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 8, 2008

This route, as well as Goodbye White Opel, calls to any climbers in the area. To paraphrase Chouinard, one should not stare at too good a crack for too long a time. Get on it!
By Andrew McLean
From: Colorado
Jun 24, 2008

Classic indeed. I am new to crack climbing and must say the OW pod included a really interesting chicken wing jam. The rap anchors require an 8 foot down climb down to roof. Climbers left of the top out
By slim
Administrator
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

My wife dropped her tennis shoe behind the huge flake a few years ago, resulting in us driving to the Sierra Trading Post in Cheyenne to get some new shoes. This place is hungry for shoes, beware!
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'm glad somebody else utilized the awkward, chicken wing jam!
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 28, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

So far this is my favorite route at Vedauwoo. The belay stance is exposed so plan on building an anchor. The offwidth pod can be overcome with a long reach eliminating the need to use offwidth technique. The pod is the only 10d move on the route, while the rest probably checks in around 10a.

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