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The Crack House
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Classic Corner  T 
Five Fun S 
Green Elbow T 
Honeycomb S 
Medicine Man T 
Moral Dilemma S 
Nose , The T 
Scary Jerry S 
Sling Blade T 
unnamed  T 
Yeller' Feller' T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Medicine Man 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Dopp / Frank Jackson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: Jeff Dopp on Oct 22, 2009

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Description 

There are two starts for this route...both are about 10a.
1) Climb an obvious V shaped open chimney for 20' then move right to the base of the big dihedral.

2) Climb jugs on a short slightly overhanging wall directly below the dihedral then pull up onto a short slab split by a finger crack.

Climb the obvious crack/dihedral for 80' to the ledge below a 20' roof.

We have made it 3/4 of the way up the roof but haven't been back to finish it. Soft rock with less than great pro!

We left a #11 Hex as a rap anchor but my guess is that the cord is now part of some nest.

Location 

At the entrance to the Crack House on the west side. The climb follows the prominent right leaning dihedral that can be seen clearly from the ground or the east side of the Canyon. Approach the same as the Nose.

Protection 

Set of stoppers and set of cams.


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