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Medicine Man 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Scott
Page Views: 1,186
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Onsighting another very beautiful classic route in...


A fun line but quite sharp, do it when you have fresh tough skin - not a good 3rd day on route! Climbs easily up the dihedral, gradually easing right onto the arete. Prepare for the crux when you are fully on the arete and making a long move. Powerful and possibly dynamic. Fun despite the pain.


Located down and around the corner from the handful of routes near Wotai. You'll be scrambling around a few large boulders to get to the flat base near the dihedral immediately left of the blunt arete that is Medicine Man.


7 or 8 bolts ?? to anchors

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By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 3, 2007

Really good. 6 bolts actually. Leave the biner that's on the anchor.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
May 20, 2009

I don't know about .11c/d. I've never onsighted anything harder than 5.10 and cruised the crux of this only to fall off the upper section becuase the sun was in my eyes and I couldn't see where the pockets were. This was after at least 5 pitches of .10 and up climbing.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

My 2 cents say that this route is 11c if you climb directly up the bolt line, i.e. staying off the crack and stem at the beginning. Fun route done this way.
By A. Bandos
From: Broomfield
Jul 11, 2017

Good line. Keep cranking to get to better holds. There is a (new?) 11d immediately to the left of this. The rock looks suspect from the ground, but it is solid.

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