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The Manta Buttress
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Meddle T 

Meddle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Howard Ballou, Jacob Bingham
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Howard Ballou on Sep 18, 2016

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MEDDLE

Description 

Meddle is named after the Pink Floyd album in honor of it's longest song "ECHOS". Coined for the Manta Buttress's location on "The wall of Echoes". As of this posting, it may be the longest route on this formation. The rock quality is incredible, but as always in this area be mindful of rock fall. The first three pitches are 180'-200' each...Rope drag can be an issue if protection isn't sufficiently extended.
Pitch 1 : Follow the crack system up as it trends slightly right until they diminish. Traverse left across a face and mantle the first belay ledge.
Pitch 2:Start right from the ledge and continue slightly left to a weakness that goes under a roof ledge. Pull the right side of the roof to another comfortable belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Continue up through the weakness to some easy climbing. Belay at the base of the summit block below a huge tree.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing to a worthwhile summit view!

Location 

Follow directions to the Wall of Echoes. Look for the Giant Buttress/Tower system past Medicine Man as you wonder your way up along the base of the WOE. To descend, traverse right to the top of "Rain Shadow" to a series of single rope rappels on fixed anchors. Use a 60 meter rope or longer.

Protection 

Standard rack with doubles in hand size pieces.


Photos of Meddle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake Bingham on the top of Pitch 1
Jake Bingham on the top of Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake Bingham on the summit of the FA of Meddle!
Jake Bingham on the summit of the FA of Meddle!

Comments on Meddle Add Comment
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By Joshua Reinig
Sep 28, 2016

Spun-Ducky-Woo-Woo!!!

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