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Matrix, The T,S 
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Wildcat T 

Mechanical Advantage 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Drew Brayshaw, Shaun Neufeld Sep. 10, 2016.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Dru on Sep 13, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Red lines indicate climbing. green lines indicate ...

Description 

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 7 bolts, gear (three cams, finger to #3 Camalot size), 35 m.
Climb a short corner and face past a bolt to ledges. Traverse a sloping ramp above ledges to a couple slab moves (5 bolts) to gain a hanging right facing corner and gear protected climbing. Layback up this (fingers to fist) to a tricky mantle. Squirm past a giant Doug Fir (one more bolt) to anchors.

Follow a trail up and left to a handline leading to the next ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.8, 6 bolts, 30 m
Climb a pocketed slab up from the belay and curve left. All bolt protected. Small stance belay below a giant curving flake.

Pitch 3: 5.9, all gear protected (gear to 3", medium cams to #3 camalot and some small/med wire nuts), 25 m
The flake directly above the belay is solid but the flake above that is thin and hollow-sounding. So avoid it by underclinging left from the belay around the arete and then climb past a block and up thin finger cracks to the top of the buttress.

Pitch 2 and 3 might be linkable but watch for rope drag.

The direct flake on p3 has been top roped gingerly at 5.10 but is probably not a good choice for a gear lead.

Pitch 4 is only worth doing if going on to Change Room or Turbulence above. Scramble back from the belay and climb a 2-bolt face (one hard slabby boulder move, then easy cruising) 10m , 2 bolts. Ends right at the base of the Change Room.

Location 

Approach: from the East Wall trail, about halfway between Wildcat and Shark Tooth Flake. From the logs on the trail look left to see a scramble trail heading uphill. Follow this to a large boulder and short step with a fixed handline. Climb starts just above.

All belays are fixed for rappel. You can get down P1 with a 60 m rope. When rapping P3, there is a fixed permadraw between P3 and the direct flake - clip both ropes to this on the way down so that the flake doesn't eat your rope when you pull the rap ropes!

Protection 

Gear from small wire nuts to #3 Camalot. About 10 draws should be sufficient for pro; use more, and more long draws if linking p2 and p3


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By Dru
Aug 29, 2017

This route was given a touch-up clean last weekend. Nice and buffed right now

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