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Mechanical Advantage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Small, 2014
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Jul 28, 2014

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Stem and jam up the arch, pulling on jugs. Climb up and left to a wider ramp. Follow this line up and right to a tricky few moves before a mantle, then clip them anchors.

Soft for the grade, but it's the grade given by the first ascensionist. A one-move-wonder 10- continuation is possible above by climbing past the anchor (1 bolt) to the Feed The Rat anchors.


Left (North) section of the crag. Where the crag first starts turning from West to North-facing there are two wider cracks. This is the leftmost one that begins up a left facing arch into a right-facing corner.


Gear to a #3 Camalot is sufficient, but you could place a #4 or a #5 if you wanted. Takes nuts beautifully. Rap rings at the top.

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