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Meat Puppets 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford 1988
Season: faces east
Page Views: 5,382
Submitted By: bheller on Oct 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The boulder crux is the crimpy and powerful bulge about 2/3rds of the way up, although holding it together on the very technical micro featured upper slab is no easy feat. This climb was rated 12b/c in the Ruckman guidebook, but it seems a few holds have broken and now the grade is suggested at 12d (very dependent on temperature!- for unbelievable friction climb it in the shade at 39 degrees!). As the story goes, after the Snowbird competition in 1988, Marc Le Menestrel onsighted this route* and proclaimed it as one of the best he had ever climbed. Impressive onsight! Sadly, to the disgust of all present, Didier Raboutou fell during his onsight attempt, hung his head, and returned to Euroland. (*as verified by the Mayor of LCC)


This awesome face climb looms above the standard anchors of The Green Adjective. Climb the Green A and then scramble/ climb about 30 feet higher up to the right to another set of bolted anchors-this is the start of the route. The first bolt is up past the initial short steep section and on the slab. A series of rappels puts you back at the porch of the Green A.


After you lead The Green Adjective(bring nuts)quickdraws are all that is needed to see you up this route. Chain anchors at top.

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By bsmoot
Oct 12, 2008

This is one of the more improbable lines on the granite. Amazing route.
By tenesmus
Oct 12, 2008

I'm sorry for the holds I broke. This is a fantastic line I haven't quite mastered.
By jonathan knight
Oct 13, 2008

Is the flexy-flake (upper slab crux) the main thing that has broken, or has something else broken this season?

Marc Le Menestrel on-sighted it when he was here for the first Snowbird comp in '88. Mike Beck said that Didier tried it and fell off the top.
By tenesmus
Oct 13, 2008

Not this year. Last season I broke a medium hold just before the initial steep section but I don't think it made it much different. That and the jug you mentioned and I'm really sorry.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 17, 2012

Anyone know what the newer line left of Meat Puppets is?
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

To my knowledge that's an uncompleted open project. Partially bolted by Doug Heinrich.

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